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La Infidel a la Plantacio, Montserrat

Publié le 30 June 2017 | Catalunya Eng, Spain

A short stopover in Barcelona and the opportunity to meet up again for a great route in Montserrat, just behind the Gorras sector, the Infidel a la Plantacio. The route isn't too bad and is fairly well equipped on the 5 sup passages. For the 3rd pitch, we went right instead of left and ended up in the next pitch with a V+/6a expo. A good finish at the same spot, with a fine panorama of the massif's south face.

Technical summary

Type ✦ Large equipped route

Location ✦ Montserrat, South Face

Region ✦ Catalunya

Country ✦ Spain

Lengths ✦ 4

Vertical drop ✦ 120m

Difficulty max ✦ V+

Interest ✦ ★

Access to the place

From Barcelona, take the A2 towards Lleida and exit at the Hotel du Bruc to reach the Col de Can Maçana, pass on the north side and climb up to the Monastery parking lot. Park here to start the approach.

Map & topo

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 1h

Cross the monastery and climb up to the Plafond d'Ana, then cross to the south and climb up to the path alongside the Gorras (the central path to Sant Jeroni). Past the Gorra Fridgia, and just before a concrete watchtower, turn left onto a path that descends steeply to reach the base of the Plantacio needle further down on the left. The start is at a large boulder, the bolts of which are painted yellow.

Course

The route is equipped and comprises 4 pitches for 120m of climbing (35m, 30m, 25m, 30m). South-facing, the obligatory level is in V, with 2 passages in very well-equipped V+ (start and last pitch).

L1 (V+, 35m)

Climb the boulder and start with a small, fairly thin wall in V/V+. The rest of the route is easier, with more distant points up to the belay.

L2 (III+, 30m)

Easy length with few points but no difficulties.

L3 (IV, 25m)

A little more vertical but no difficulty. Don't stop at the 1st belay under the bulge (which we did...) and climb the R3 belay higher, under the small overhang.

L4 (V+, 30m)

We didn't do this, as we went over to the right. Go left, traversing up the dihedral wall in V+. Finish on a small sloping ridge and climb to the top via a small, easy dihedral.

Back

Abseil about 20m on the north-west side to land on a small pass. Follow the small path that joins the main Gorras trail. Return via the approach path in the opposite direction.