On the border between Aude and Ariège, in the heart of the Pays de Sault, the Pic de Sarrasis cliffs offer an ideal climbing spot to enjoy sunny winter days. With excellent rock, impeccable equipment and fairly long routes between 20 and 30m, you can enjoy climbing from 5c to 6c. The Scaramus sector has evolved with new routes, and the following sectors are waiting to be discovered. Here's a first glimpse of this quiet spot, far from the noise and surrounded by nature.
Technical summary
Itinerary
Rind climbing site.
Geographical situation
The cliff is located between the villages of Belcaire and Roquefeuille, in the Aude department (11), near the Col du Chioula.
Technical difficulties
Routes from 5a to 7a+ (Scaramus sector)
Orientation
The cliffs face due south, sheltered from the wind and ideal for a sunny day in winter.
Field and environnement
Very adherent, compact limestone rock. The lower part of the paths is generally shaded, under shrubs.
Gear and equipments
All routes are equipped with pads and linked belays. FFME-approved climbing site.
General review
A great spot for winter climbing, in the sunshine, in a peaceful and accessible location.
Access to the place
On the D613 road between Quillian (Aude) and Ax-les-Thermes (Ariege), take the small road between Belcaire and Roquefeuille, which passes at the foot of the Pic des Sarrasis cliffs. There is a parking area at the start of the access road. There's also an information panel on the climbing site.
Map & topo
The topo is the one available on the Pyrénées audoises climbing website. It has been completed with the new routes we have tested, but there is still some uncertainty as to the exact location of the routes. It will be updated as soon as possible.
From the parking lot below the cliffs, climb through the forest on the wide yellow path. Further on, we leave this trail to take a small path that climbs steeper into the undergrowth and reaches the base of the cliffs, at the Scaramus sector, below the Regina.
Course
All routes are marked with a small green label with name and level. Some are detached or missing. The routes described below are those we climbed on the Scaramus sector from left to right. The heights given here are indicative. Number of points to be confirmed.
Regina (6a+, 20m, 7 points)
Shorter but very physical. The section above the orange indentation requires a step on reduced holds (2 fingers) to grab the exit hold. Above this, a small section on slabs is also quite physical. The end is easier. You can continue beyond the 1st belay to do the final part of La Boum on a rounded ridge with good grip (35m almost all the way up and 10 points).
La Boum (5a, 25m, 9 points)
The easiest route in a dihedral formed with large boulders. We exit just above the Regina to continue on a sloping ridge with not-so-obvious grip (5b?).
Dame Carcas (5c, 25m, 9 points)
Possibly misplaced on the topo. Starts just to the right of La Boum (check). Not too hard a start. The difficult part is halfway up with a slight bulge to negotiate with a small crack and few footholds. The end is easier.
La Gasconne (6a, 20m, 7 points)
Not so hard a start, the pitch is at the 3rd point. Shift to the right, balancing, and climb up to find a nice hole that allows you to exit.
Monalisa (5c+, 25m, 9 points)
Moving further to the right, before descending to the next wall. A fairly homogeneous route, the central section is the most difficult.
Upsidedown (6a, 25m, 10 points)
A beautiful, varied, aerial route on impeccable rock. Nice straight holds and an invigorating finish.
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