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Amistades Pelirrojas a la Roc d’en Sola, Perles

Publié le 14 May 2023 | Catalunya Eng, Spain

In the Oliana valley, at Coll de Nargo, a small road leads to the hamlet of Perles and more precisely to the incredible limestone cliff of Roc d'en Sola. A neighbor of Putes Mosques, the Amistades Pelirrojas route climbs a superb, almost vertical slab with 4 pitches of sustained 6a climbing. Airy and varied, it takes advantage of the wild and peaceful atmosphere of Alt Urgell.

Technical summary

■ S tarting point: hamlet of Perles, Alt Urgell, Catalunya, Spain
■ Type of route: big equipped route
■ Length : 100m in 4 pitches (20m, 35m, 25m, 20m)
■ Rock: limestone
■ Direction: south-east
■ Approach/return time : 15' / 30' (rappels + walk)
■ Min and max altitude: 900 m / 1000 m
■ Equipment in place: pads, equipped belays
■ Equipment required: 12 quickdraws and 1 or 2 small stoppers to protect L4

Difficulty: 6a+ in L2, fine, sustained slab climbing

Access to the place

From the C14, just above Organya, before Andorra, turn towards Figols and Cambrils, crossing the Segre. Continue on this small road (L401), leaving the fork on the left towards Figols, and after 9 km you'll arrive under the cliffs (on the left). Park on the side of the road just before Perles or as you enter the village (small square with fountain).

Map & topo

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 15'

Take the signposted path upwards opposite the village entrance. Climb gently towards the Roc d'en Sola, which is clearly visible. When you reach the base (characteristic roof and orange slab), leave the path to reach the foot of the tracks. The trail starts under shrubs at the base of the roof, the 1st point shared with Putes Mosques.

Course

Length 1 (20m, V+/6a)

The start is worth a 6a with leaky holds and little for the hands. Then a diagonal traverse to cut the ridge and exit on a steeper ramp with good holds to the R1 belay at the foot of the large slab.

Length 2 (35m, 6a+)

Climb vertically, following the leftmost points. Sustained, fine climbing, before a slightly more delicate step to exit next to a shrub. Then continue on to reach a pretty dihedral that's always sustained until you reach the R2 belay above the left corner of the roof. A magnificent pitch!

Length 3 (25m, 6a)

Magnificent again! Climb the dihedral in opposition, pass higher up on the slab and then return to the dihedral. Airy, sustained length on excellent rock.

Length 4 (20m, 6a)

A pretty technical step just above the belay. Then exit by zigzagging to the right under a small roof, then to the left to finish in an inclined dihedral (V). You can also go straight out above the roof, but it's harder (6a).

Back

Either walk back down (not tried) or descend the ridge for 30m to the Mac Gregor a su Pesar and Alinyencs sport routes just below. We return a few meters from the start of the route.