TOPO Climbing | CLIMBING7.COM

Esperó dels Maneirons a la Paret del Grau, Coll de Nargo, Spain

Publié le 20 August 2014 | Catalunya Eng, Spain

Rainy weather in Alt Urgell, for a change. A break in the weather allowed us to head off to Coll de Nargò for the easternmost route up the Paret del Grau ridge. A superb 1st pitch, on excellent rock, but the rain didn't let us go any further. Descending from the 1st belay point, we settled on the village café for a little caña and a slice of lomo con tomate. Not bad either. Finally, it's time for a little trip to the Mecca of climbing: a passage under the super-sloping walls of the Rumbau buttress at Oliana, at the foot of 9a/9b routes. Suffice to say, it's absolutely unthinkable to take even the 1st step...

Technical summary

Access to the place

Go to the village of Coll de Nargo on the C14 between d'Oliana and Organya, under the Seu d'Urgell and Andorra. Enter the village, cross it and at the exit, level with an old bell tower, turn right towards Coll Piqué. Climb up, the asphalt becomes a track and you come to a small pass, between the Paret del Grau on the left and the sports areas on the right. Park here, next to a large rocky tooth.

Map & topo

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 10'

Fast and obvious. Climb a small path marked out towards the rock to reach the base of the ridge at the end and find the start of the route on the other side, on the north-east side.

Course

The route, facing East or South-East, climbs the ridge for 100m in 3 pitches (25m, 30m, 30m). Sporty equipment for trouble-free climbing. All you need is a good set of 12 quickdraws. Max level 6b (L2)

L1 (25m, 6a+)

Superb pitch! 1st part vertical with small holds, then exit onto a slightly sloping slab with a nice tub. Above, a beautiful step with balance and grip, finishing diagonally to the R1 belay on the ridge, under a small overhang.

L2 (30m, 6b)

Not done, the rain having washed the rock in the meantime... One or 2 steps in 6b, it seems, to get out on a flat before attacking the V+ ridge, according to the topo (?).

L3 and L4 (30m + 15m, V+ then IV+)

Also not done.