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About climbing

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Climbing currently covers a large number of practices which, due to the conditions of practice and the objective, are very different. We can easily divide the practices into 2 groups: climbing in an artificial environment and climbing in a natural environment. Only this last field of practice interests us here.

In a natural environment, we have several forms of practice:

bouldering: consists of climbing without belaying on very short routes, in a few movements, often on the faces of large rock blocks. Here there is no rope to belay, the climber is protected from falling by a partner and one or more landing mats on the ground (crash pad).

Sport routes : we climb on routes between 10m and 30 or 40m in a single pitch. A ground belayer is mandatory. We climb in the lead or top rope. Most of the rinds are equipped with plates to progress and relays to descend, but there are also single-pitch routes in adventure terrain.

Multi-pitch routes: this time it involves climbing walls of more than 40 or 50m and up to several hundred meters. The rope team of 2 or 3 people progresses from relay to relay, alternating between climbing at the head for the first and climbing top-rope from the top for the second and possibly the third. We then go back down either by walking from the top (return path) or by descending along the route to the ground. The long routes are either equipped (with all the points and relays), or in adventure terrain (protection to be placed by the climber), or mixed (some equipment and protection to be placed depending on the passages).

Equipment for climbing

Sport routes climbing

Quick draws and some long ones. Straight carabiner at the top that moves in the strap, curved carabiner at the bottom tight on the strap. Around fifteen quickdraws should be enough for any length in sport, with some exceptions.

A simple dynamic rope. Choose a diameter around 10mm. Between 9.6 or less (lighter and more comfortable but be careful with a very fast rope when belaying) and 10.3 (heavier but safer). Prefer ropes protected against abrasion and external conditions (cover dry). To be used on both ends alternately, to be renewed regularly depending on use, number of large falls (often expected between 7 and 15 maximum) or in the event of deterioration (cut, nick, erosion)

Belay device with 3 options. The least good but least expensive, the traditional eight. It works, it’s very educational but twists the rope. The Gris-gris is expensive and heavy, not very practical for my taste for leading, not usable for abseiling. On the other hand, good for the reel: you get less tired and it’s safer (self-locking). That leaves the Reverso or the ATC (it’s the same in 2 different brands) which seems to me to be ideal. Quite expensive but very practical, versatile, we use it for sport, long-distance, abseiling. Bouzille the ropes less and blocks more than the eight. For the 3 options, a rather wide screw carabiner.

Personal anchor tether preferably (double with 2 screw carabiners) or 2 short lanyards to place in a lark’s knot on the central trigger guard.

A pof bag obviously with pof in it preferably. It can be useful, just in the head while rummaging around before the big step which hurts the fingers…

Equipped multi-pitch climbing

Harness, helmet, descender (ATC or reverso), set of quickdraws, pof bag and ditto cows.

A dynamic 2x60m double rope to go almost anywhere. The advantage of the double is to be able to clip 1 out of 2 (reduce the pull), to benefit from a 60m abseil and also to go into a rope of 3, with 2 climbers second.

A 120 cm sewn lanyard to set up your relay.

4 additional screw carabiners to secure the top (plate type locking on the reverse side). To avoid carrying too much, anchor yourself at the belay on 2 screw carabiners with a capstan (avoid carrying the double cow in addition)

A shunt or machard (light screw carabiner + 6 mm ring cord) for self-belaying when abseiling.

Trad climbing

Whether on one or more lengths, you must add to what is said above the protective gear on the rock and something to extend the quickdraws depending on the route.

A game of friends, for example in Black Diamond: a 0.3, a 0.4, one or two 0.75, two 1s, two 2s, 1 3 and a 4 at least, i.e. 10 pieces. Otherwise, equip yourself according to the needs of the route.

A set of bicoin type jammers from the smallest to the largest.

120cm lanyards for equipping shrubs or around/in rock (lunula, merlet type, etc.)

A key to getting out those stuck up or recalcitrant friends!

A set of long quickdraws made with thin 60 cm and 120 cm lanyards mounted on 2 carabiners (and folded to be extended and avoid pulling

Rating of climbing routes

Among the different rating systems, we will mainly use the French system here which gives the difficulty of the sporting routes. For routes in adventure terrain, the English rating may also be used.

Namely that a length is rated in relation to its most difficult step. Also that the rating of a route depends on the morphology of the climber and their technical level.

The level of a route is supposed to correspond to a difficulty overcome without falling or resting in the rope and leading “on sight”, that is to say on the first try, without prior testing.

To learn more about climbing rating scales:

Read more (in french)

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