presentation

<p>Randonnée exceptionnelle pour découvrir le parc naturel de los Nevados au départ de Salento dans le département du Quindío. Trois jours de randonnée itinérante pour gravir les étages de la cordillère colombienne, de la forêt tropicale au páramo où fleurissent des milliers de frailejones, et gravir l’arête nord du Paramillo jusqu’au Pic du Quindío Norte à 4700m d’altitude. De là, une vue spectaculaire sur les nevados de Santa Isabel et du Tolima à plus de 5200m. Un quatrième jour peut être utile pour s’acclimater ou attendre la bonne fenêtre météo. Une randonnée majeure en Colombie, à la rencontre des habitants des hautes vallées andines et des territoires sauvages de la cordillère.</p>

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<p>Les données ci-dessous correspondent à l’itinéraire sur 3 ou 4 jours.</p>
<p>► <em>Lieu de départ</em> : Salento, Quindio, Colombie<br />
► <em>Type de parcours</em> : randonnée itinérante de très haute montagne<br />
► <em>Distance à parcourir</em> : 41 km<br />
► <em>Dénivelé positif cumulé</em> : +2910 m<br />
► <em>Dénivelé négatif cumulé</em> : -2910 m<br />
► <em>Durée totale estimée</em> :  3 à 4 jours<br />
► <em>Altitude min et max</em> :  1895 m / 4690 m<br />
► <em>Balisage</em> : aucun mais sentiers bien tracés, pancartes de temps en temps. Tracé GPS très utile car l’itinéraire combine plusieurs sentiers parfois pas évident à connecter.<br />
► <em>Équipement en place</em> : aucun<br />
► <em>Matériel à prévoir</em> : trace GPS très utile, bottes basiques idéales pour marcher dans les zones boueuses et marécageuses (botas pantaneras)</p>
<p><u>Difficultés</u> : la principale difficulté est l’altitude, particulièrement au-delà de 4000m. La progression dans le paramo est difficile car le sol est très boueux ou marécageux.</p>

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<p>Depuis Armenia ou Peirera, prendre un bus pour rejoindre la ville de Salento. De là, sur la place principale Bolivar, prendre une Jeep pour monter jusqu’à Cocora (4000 pesos à ce jour, 1er départ à 7h, 45′ environ de route). Le départ du jour 1 se fait de là. C’est un coin touristique en raison de la présence d’immenses palmiers de cire de plus de 70m de hauteur, emblématique de Colombie.</p>
<p><strong>À propos des Fincas</strong></p>
<p>Ce sont des petites propriétés gérées par des habitants de façon privée. Le confort est sommaire mais l’accueil est chaleureux. On peut y dormir dans des chambres dortoirs (25.000 à 30.000 pesos), petit-déjeuner (8.000 à 12.000 pesos) et diner (12.000 à 14.000 pesos). Il y a même des douches chaudes, sommaires également mais vraiment chaude (4000 à 5000 pesos). Les proprios sont à même de donner des infos précises sur les itinéraires possibles. Dans la semaine, il ne semble pas nécessaire de réserver, le week-end ou les jours fériés, c’est préférable. Voici les contacts des Fincas où je suis passé (voir page facebook pour tous les contacts) :</p>
<p>– Finca Argentina – Don Javier et Gloria – +57 316 46 74 802<br />
– Finca Buenos Aires – Don Enrique et Juliana (sa fille) – +57 314 83 93 397<br />
– Finca Primavera – Dona Mabel – +57 310 832 78 79</p>
<p><a href="https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Parque-Nevados-mapa.pdf">Télécharger la carte du Parc Naturel des Nevados en PDF</a></p>

texte_carte

<p>Le tracé de la crête du jour 2 pour revenir sur la finca Primavera est indicatif car le sentier existe mais n’apparait pas sur le fond de carte. Pour le transfert de Salento à Cocora, à ce jour, départ en jeep de 7h à 17h toutes les 2h et retour de Cocora de 8h à 18h toutes les 2h également.</p>

carte_iframe

[iframe width="100%" height="600px" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen src="https://framacarte.org/fr/map/paramillo-del-quindio-salento_111685?scaleControl=true&miniMap=true&scrollWheelZoom=false&zoomControl=true&allowEdit=false&moreControl=true&searchControl=null&tilelayersControl=null&embedControl=true&datalayersControl=true&onLoadPanel=undefined&captionBar=true&fullscreenControl=true"]
<p><a href="https://framacarte.org/fr/map/paramillo-del-quindio-salento_111685">Voir en plein écran</a></p>

parcours

<p>Les difficultés concernent essentiellement le terrain, l’orientation et l’altitude.</p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Le terrain</span> : les sentiers sont bien tracés au sol mais non balisés, souvent aménagés avec rodins de bois pour former des marches ou dévier le ruissellement de l’eau. Cependant, jusqu’à 4000m, c’est un terrain extrêmement boueux et glissant. J’ai opté rapidement pour les bottes hautes ou <em>botas pantaneras</em> basiques que portent tous les habitants du coin. On a le pied et le bas de pantalon au sec et en plus ça glisse moins qu’avec les chaussures de rando. Ne pas hésiter à s’en procurer à Salento.</p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">L’orientation</span> : il n’y a pas beaucoup d’options, souvent qu’un seul sentier et peu de bifurcation mais il est très recommandé d’avoir avec soi la trace GPS de l’itinéraire car il y a des zones où c’est moins visible et les espaces sont très grands. De plus on est vraiment tout seul, et même si la progression est plutôt logique naturellement, on peut se repérer avec plus de certitude. Seul le retour de la Fonca Primavera à Cocora est assez bien indiquée avec de nombreux panneaux en chemin.</p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">L’altitude</span> : ce qu’il ne fait surtout pas négliger au risque de faire demi-tour avant le sommet. Salento étant à presque 2000m, c’est mieux d’y passer 1 journée complète avant de monter. La pause à 3500m ou 3700m parait aussi nécessaire avant de filer vers les 4500m. C’est pourquoi la boucle parait plus faisable en 4 jours pour respecter l’acclamation du corps à l’effort en altitude.</p>
<p><strong>1er jour : de Cocora à la Finca Buenos Aires (3700m, 5h à 6h, 1500m d+, 12 km)</strong></p>
<p>Cette étape se fait en une fois ou, si l’on préfère s’acclimater plus progressivement, en 2 fois en faisant une étape à la Finca Argentina à 3450m, et une pause le lendemain à Buenos Aires en laissant l’acclimatation se faire toute seule, donc sans rien faire !</p>
<p>Depuis Cocora, marcher sur la piste qui traverse le hameau et les installations touristiques pour rejoindre le lit du torrent Cardenas qu’on va globalement suivre en rive gauche jusqu’à la maison isolée de la Cascada, sauf au départ où on le croise 2 fois sur des troncs avec un petit câble tendu. Juste après, ça monte légèrement pour redescendre et franchir le torrent à nouveau sur un pont fait de troncs et câble. Derrière, l’ascension débute et le sentier monte de façon plus soutenue. À plus de 2900m, il y a un replat avec une bifurcation indiquée vers Santa Lucia. Continuer en descendant pour passer un petit torrent sur  quelques troncs au fond d’un talweg. Ça remonte pour franchir les 3000m puis 3200m, on découvre petit à petit la vallée du rio Cardenas qui s’enfonce devant nous. Il y a ensuite une assez longue section plus plate et vallonnée autour de 3300m. On traverse plus loin un nouveau torrent pour une dernière ascension et rejoindre la Finca Argentina. 4h à 5h de marche depuis Cocora.</p>
<p>Une halte est possible là, chez Javier et sa famille ou bien poursuivre jusqu’à la Finca Buenos Aires un peu au-dessus et un peu plus avancée dans la vallée, à 1 heure environ. La Finca est tenue par Enrique, seul avec ses chevaux, ses vaches, ses chiens et son chat. Plus petite que Argentina, la vue est superbe, plus ouverte et on aperçoit déjà un bout du Paramillo del Quindio tout au fond de la vallée.</p>
<p><strong>2ème jour : de la Finca Buenos Aires au camp de base du Paramillo del Quindio (4200m, 3h)</strong></p>
<p>Sortir de la Finca Buenos Aires et à la première bifurcation, monter dans un terrain de plus en plus dégagé. On voit apparaître les premiers frailejones et le sentier mène sur un plateau supérieur à plus de 4000m tapissé de frailejones. Dans notre dos, avec de la chance, on aperçoit le sommet du nevado du Tolima, spectaculaire. Là, après environ 45′ de marche, il y a une bifurcation en Y : en poursuivant légèrement à gauche, c’est la route vers la Finca Berlin, légèrement à droite, on file vers le camp de base. Monter pour passer une arête et basculer de l’autre coté en accédant à un grand vallon supérieur et une zone de marécage au centre. Le sentier descend un peu et va, au milieu des frailejones, décrire une grande courbe par la gauche et remonter en face jusqu’à passer une nouvelle arête, environ 1h50 après le départ, tout ça autour des 4100m d’altitude.</p>
<p>Passée l’arête on découvre alors le cirque du Paramillo tout en fond de vallée du Cardenas. Suivre le sentier bien marqué qui va s’enfoncer progressivement, dans une longue traversée, sans perdre ni gagner trop de dénivelé et rejoindre la base du cirque sous une petite cascade qui est probablement la source du Cardenas, au delà des marécages. Monter d’un palier en passant à gauche de la petite cascade et là se trouve un replat, au pied du cirque, le camp de base à 4200m.</p>
<p><strong>2ème jour : du camp de base au sommet du Paramillo del Quindio (4690m, 1h30 à 2h)</strong></p>
<p>La distance à parcourir est courte lais l’effort intense vue l’altitude et l’inclinaison de la pente. Le sentier qui mène à la crête coté Ouest est évident et se voit bien tracé dans les pentes sablonneuses noires et orangée. Plus on monte plus c’est raide et le sable n’aide pas pour progresser. On accède alors à la crête entre une montagne noire en forme de pyramide (à gauche) et le sommet du Quindio Nord ( à droite) au bout de la crête. On est déjà à plus de 4500m. Reste alors à remonter la rampe formée par la crête arrondie de sable dur et d’une fine pellicule de neige aujourd’hui jusqu’au sommet à presque 4700m. Final éprouvant mais du sommet la vue est incroyable : le nevado de  Santa Isabel au Nord, le Tolima au Sud-Est, la lagune argentée de la Leona à nos pieds. Spectaculaire !</p>
<p><strong>2ème jour : du sommet du Paramillo del Quindio à la Finca Primavera (3740m, 2h30 à 3h)</strong></p>
<p>Redescendre au camp de base en utilisant cette fois les pentes sablonneuses à son avantage et revenir au niveau de la grande zone de marécages. Traverser les marécages peut s’avérer délicat car il y a des trous d’eau et on peut y mettre toute la jambes. Soit se décaler coté gauche dès le départ, soit tenter de traverser en restant longtemps en terrain dur mais dans tous les cas, il fait rejoindre un sentier bien marqué qui court coté gauche un peu en hauteur, sur un rebord qui cache en fait 2 petits étangs.Une fois sur ce sentier filer tout droit en s’éloignant progressivement du cirque du Paramillo.</p>
<p>Passer sous de petites barres rocheuse noires et franchir une clôture. Juste a près, bifurquer sur un sentier qui va traverser et remonter en diagonale sur le flanc gauche de la montagne. Remonter en visant la crête, passer une petite cuvette et pas loin d’un nouveau petit étang argenté. Une fois sur la crête au niveau d’un large col, le sentier monte sur une première bosse puis de poursuit longtemps sur le fil de la crête, avec du plat et une seconde petite bosse à négocier mais sans difficulté. On a coté droit une vue aérienne sur la vallée du Cardenas et on peut apprécier tout l’itinéraire de l’aller coté opposé.</p>
<p>Enfin, après cette longue traversée autour des 4000m, le sentier descend pour rejoindre un col et un sentier visible de loin et qui part en travers au Sud-Est. Le suivre en traversant puis en descendant pour dévaler jusqu’à la Finca Primavera, face au cratère du Tolima.</p>
<p><strong>3ème jour : de la Finca Primavera à Cocora (4h30 à 5h30)</strong></p>
<p>Le chemin de la Finca Primavera jusqu’à Cocora est long et assez éprouvant, avec un bon dénivelé négatif.  Sortir de la Finca par le haut et suivre le large sentier hyper boueux pour s’extraire progressivement de la vallée du Tolima. On se rapproche des 4000m pour accéder un un grand plateau supérieur de páramo peuplé de frailejone. On trouve assez vite la bifurcation vers la finca Estrella de Agua. Longue traversée vallonnée en suivant les petit panneaux de bois qui indiquent los Romerales. Puis ça descend un peu sur la gauche pour traverser un pont de bois et remonter jusqu’à franchir un col devant une énorme dent. On est à la limite entre le département du Quidio et du Tolima.</p>
<p>On accède à un petit vallon qu’on traverse en restant en hauteur et franchir au bout un nouveau petit col qui fait basculer dans la vallée qui mènera tout en bas au lit du rio Quindio. Ça descend cette fois en continu, jusqu’à atteindre le niveau de la forêt vers 3700m d’altitude. Débute alors une grande descente en forêt dans un sentier en forme de tranchée, parfois très étroite, en pleine végétation. Touit en bas, le sentier rejoint enfin le Quidio pour le suivre en passant en rive gauche jusqu’à la Finca Estrella de Agua à 3240m. 2h30 à 3h depuis la Finca Primavera. On peut faire une pause café.</p>
<p>Reste encore du chemin à parcourir pour sortir à Cocora, 2h à 2h30. Longer le torrent puis le sentier monte en contre-haut pour une longue section d’alternance de montée et descente qui casse un peu les jambes. Retour progressif de la forêt tropicale. Au bout, ça redescend de façon abrupte et soutenue pour retrouver le lit du Quindio et le franchir une première fois sur un pont de bois suspendu un peu branlant sécurisé par des câbles un peu rouillés… mais ça passe. On entre alors dans un parcours aménagé du parc de Cocora (entrée payante coté Cocora, 5000 pesos). Suivre le lit du torrent et franchir 6 ou 7 ponts suspendus tous aussi bralants les uns que les autres. L’itinéraire est agréable et original. On sort finalement sur de magnifiques pentes herbeuses où des vaches colorées paissent tranquillement et avec les silhouettes fines et démesurées des palmiers de cire qui s’élancent vers le ciel. Sortir du parc, payer éventuellement les 5000 pesos si le gardien est là et rejoindre la rue principale où se trouve le parking des jeeps pour le retour sur Salento.</p>

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data-sub-html=''><a  href='https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2021-10-28_16-01-42-Paramillo-del-Quindio.jpg'><img src="https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2021-10-28_16-01-42-Paramillo-del-Quindio-300x200.jpg" data-jg-srcset="https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2021-10-28_16-01-42-Paramillo-del-Quindio-300x200.jpg 300w, https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2021-10-28_16-01-42-Paramillo-del-Quindio-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2021-10-28_16-01-42-Paramillo-del-Quindio-768x512.jpg 768w, https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2021-10-28_16-01-42-Paramillo-del-Quindio.jpg 1800w" sizes="(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /><figcaption class="dgwt-jg-caption"><span class="dgwt-jg-caption__font--14"><svg version="1.1" class="dgwt-rwpgg-ico-loupe" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" fill="#FFFFFF" width="28px" height="28px" viewBox="0 0 51 51" xml:space="preserve"><path d="M51.539,49.356L37.247,35.065c3.273-3.74,5.272-8.623,5.272-13.983c0-11.742-9.518-21.26-21.26-21.26 S0,9.339,0,21.082s9.518,21.26,21.26,21.26c5.361,0,10.244-1.999,13.983-5.272l14.292,14.292L51.539,49.356z M2.835,21.082 c0-10.176,8.249-18.425,18.425-18.425s18.425,8.249,18.425,18.425S31.436,39.507,21.26,39.507S2.835,31.258,2.835,21.082z"/></svg></span></figcaption></a></figure><figure  class='dgwt-jg-item' data-size='1800x1200' data-sub-html=''><a  href='https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2021-10-28_16-26-07-Paramillo-del-Quindio.jpg'><img src="https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2021-10-28_16-26-07-Paramillo-del-Quindio-300x200.jpg" data-jg-srcset="https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2021-10-28_16-26-07-Paramillo-del-Quindio-300x200.jpg 300w, https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2021-10-28_16-26-07-Paramillo-del-Quindio-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2021-10-28_16-26-07-Paramillo-del-Quindio-768x512.jpg 768w, https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2021-10-28_16-26-07-Paramillo-del-Quindio.jpg 1800w" sizes="(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /><figcaption class="dgwt-jg-caption"><span class="dgwt-jg-caption__font--14"><svg version="1.1" class="dgwt-rwpgg-ico-loupe" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" fill="#FFFFFF" width="28px" height="28px" viewBox="0 0 51 51" xml:space="preserve"><path d="M51.539,49.356L37.247,35.065c3.273-3.74,5.272-8.623,5.272-13.983c0-11.742-9.518-21.26-21.26-21.26 S0,9.339,0,21.082s9.518,21.26,21.26,21.26c5.361,0,10.244-1.999,13.983-5.272l14.292,14.292L51.539,49.356z M2.835,21.082 c0-10.176,8.249-18.425,18.425-18.425s18.425,8.249,18.425,18.425S31.436,39.507,21.26,39.507S2.835,31.258,2.835,21.082z"/></svg></span></figcaption></a></figure><figure  class='dgwt-jg-item' data-size='1800x1200' data-sub-html=''><a  href='https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2021-10-28_17-00-58-Paramillo-del-Quindio.jpg'><img src="https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2021-10-28_17-00-58-Paramillo-del-Quindio-300x200.jpg" data-jg-srcset="https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2021-10-28_17-00-58-Paramillo-del-Quindio-300x200.jpg 300w, https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2021-10-28_17-00-58-Paramillo-del-Quindio-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2021-10-28_17-00-58-Paramillo-del-Quindio-768x512.jpg 768w, https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2021-10-28_17-00-58-Paramillo-del-Quindio.jpg 1800w" sizes="(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /><figcaption class="dgwt-jg-caption"><span class="dgwt-jg-caption__font--14"><svg version="1.1" class="dgwt-rwpgg-ico-loupe" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" fill="#FFFFFF" width="28px" height="28px" viewBox="0 0 51 51" xml:space="preserve"><path d="M51.539,49.356L37.247,35.065c3.273-3.74,5.272-8.623,5.272-13.983c0-11.742-9.518-21.26-21.26-21.26 S0,9.339,0,21.082s9.518,21.26,21.26,21.26c5.361,0,10.244-1.999,13.983-5.272l14.292,14.292L51.539,49.356z M2.835,21.082 c0-10.176,8.249-18.425,18.425-18.425s18.425,8.249,18.425,18.425S31.436,39.507,21.26,39.507S2.835,31.258,2.835,21.082z"/></svg></span></figcaption></a></figure><figure  class='dgwt-jg-item' data-size='1800x1200' data-sub-html='<h4>Sur la crête finale du Paramillo</h4>'><a  href='https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2021-10-28_17-25-58-Paramillo-del-Quindio.jpg'><img src="https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2021-10-28_17-25-58-Paramillo-del-Quindio-300x200.jpg" data-jg-srcset="https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2021-10-28_17-25-58-Paramillo-del-Quindio-300x200.jpg 300w, https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2021-10-28_17-25-58-Paramillo-del-Quindio-1024x683.jpg 1024w, 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data-sub-html=''><a  href='https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2021-10-28_17-31-02-Paramillo-del-Quindio.jpg'><img src="https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2021-10-28_17-31-02-Paramillo-del-Quindio-300x200.jpg" data-jg-srcset="https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2021-10-28_17-31-02-Paramillo-del-Quindio-300x200.jpg 300w, https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2021-10-28_17-31-02-Paramillo-del-Quindio-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2021-10-28_17-31-02-Paramillo-del-Quindio-768x512.jpg 768w, https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2021-10-28_17-31-02-Paramillo-del-Quindio.jpg 1800w" sizes="(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /><figcaption class="dgwt-jg-caption"><span class="dgwt-jg-caption__font--14"><svg version="1.1" class="dgwt-rwpgg-ico-loupe" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" fill="#FFFFFF" width="28px" height="28px" viewBox="0 0 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presentation

Randonnée exceptionnelle pour découvrir le parc naturel de los Nevados au départ de Salento dans le département du Quindío. Trois jours de randonnée itinérante pour gravir les étages de la cordillère colombienne, de la forêt tropicale au páramo où fleurissent des milliers de frailejones, et gravir l’arête nord du Paramillo jusqu’au Pic du Quindío Norte à 4700m d’altitude. De là, une vue spectaculaire sur les nevados de Santa Isabel et du Tolima à plus de 5200m. Un quatrième jour peut être utile pour s’acclimater ou attendre la bonne fenêtre météo. Une randonnée majeure en Colombie, à la rencontre des habitants des hautes vallées andines et des territoires sauvages de la cordillère.

fiche_technique

Les données ci-dessous correspondent à l’itinéraire sur 3 ou 4 jours.<br/>
► <em>Lieu de départ</em> : Salento, Quindio, Colombie<br/>
► <em>Type de parcours</em> : randonnée itinérante de très haute montagne<br/>
► <em>Distance à parcourir</em> : 41 km<br/>
► <em>Dénivelé positif cumulé</em> : +2910 m<br/>
► <em>Dénivelé négatif cumulé</em> : -2910 m<br/>
► <em>Durée totale estimée</em> :  3 à 4 jours<br/>
► <em>Altitude min et max</em> :  1895 m / 4690 m<br/>
► <em>Balisage</em> : aucun mais sentiers bien tracés, pancartes de temps en temps. Tracé GPS très utile car l’itinéraire combine plusieurs sentiers parfois pas évident à connecter.<br/>
► <em>Équipement en place</em> : aucun<br/>
► <em>Matériel à prévoir</em> : trace GPS très utile, bottes basiques idéales pour marcher dans les zones boueuses et marécageuses (botas pantaneras)<br/>
<u>Difficultés</u> : la principale difficulté est l’altitude, particulièrement au-delà de 4000m. La progression dans le paramo est difficile car le sol est très boueux ou marécageux.

acces_au_site

Depuis Armenia ou Peirera, prendre un bus pour rejoindre la ville de Salento. De là, sur la place principale Bolivar, prendre une Jeep pour monter jusqu’à Cocora (4000 pesos à ce jour, 1er départ à 7h, 45′ environ de route). Le départ du jour 1 se fait de là. C’est un coin touristique en raison de la présence d’immenses palmiers de cire de plus de 70m de hauteur, emblématique de Colombie.<br/>
<br/>
<strong>À propos des Fincas</strong><br/>
<br/>
Ce sont des petites propriétés gérées par des habitants de façon privée. Le confort est sommaire mais l’accueil est chaleureux. On peut y dormir dans des chambres dortoirs (25.000 à 30.000 pesos), petit-déjeuner (8.000 à 12.000 pesos) et diner (12.000 à 14.000 pesos). Il y a même des douches chaudes, sommaires également mais vraiment chaude (4000 à 5000 pesos). Les proprios sont à même de donner des infos précises sur les itinéraires possibles. Dans la semaine, il ne semble pas nécessaire de réserver, le week-end ou les jours fériés, c’est préférable. Voici les contacts des Fincas où je suis passé (voir page facebook pour tous les contacts) :<br/>
<br/>
– Finca Argentina – Don Javier et Gloria – +57 316 46 74 802<br/>
– Finca Buenos Aires – Don Enrique et Juliana (sa fille) – +57 314 83 93 397<br/>
– Finca Primavera – Dona Mabel – +57 310 832 78 79<br/>
<br/>
<a href="https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Parque-Nevados-mapa.pdf">Télécharger la carte du Parc Naturel des Nevados en PDF</a>

texte_carte

<p>Le tracé de la crête du jour 2 pour revenir sur la finca Primavera est indicatif car le sentier existe mais n’apparait pas sur le fond de carte. Pour le transfert de Salento à Cocora, à ce jour, départ en jeep de 7h à 17h toutes les 2h et retour de Cocora de 8h à 18h toutes les 2h également.</p>

carte_iframe

[iframe width="100%" height="600px" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen src="https://framacarte.org/fr/map/paramillo-del-quindio-salento_111685?scaleControl=true&miniMap=true&scrollWheelZoom=false&zoomControl=true&allowEdit=false&moreControl=true&searchControl=null&tilelayersControl=null&embedControl=true&datalayersControl=true&onLoadPanel=undefined&captionBar=true&fullscreenControl=true"]
<p><a href="https://framacarte.org/fr/map/paramillo-del-quindio-salento_111685">Voir en plein écran</a></p>

parcours

<p>Les difficultés concernent essentiellement le terrain, l’orientation et l’altitude.</p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Le terrain</span> : les sentiers sont bien tracés au sol mais non balisés, souvent aménagés avec rodins de bois pour former des marches ou dévier le ruissellement de l’eau. Cependant, jusqu’à 4000m, c’est un terrain extrêmement boueux et glissant. J’ai opté rapidement pour les bottes hautes ou <em>botas pantaneras</em> basiques que portent tous les habitants du coin. On a le pied et le bas de pantalon au sec et en plus ça glisse moins qu’avec les chaussures de rando. Ne pas hésiter à s’en procurer à Salento.</p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">L’orientation</span> : il n’y a pas beaucoup d’options, souvent qu’un seul sentier et peu de bifurcation mais il est très recommandé d’avoir avec soi la trace GPS de l’itinéraire car il y a des zones où c’est moins visible et les espaces sont très grands. De plus on est vraiment tout seul, et même si la progression est plutôt logique naturellement, on peut se repérer avec plus de certitude. Seul le retour de la Fonca Primavera à Cocora est assez bien indiquée avec de nombreux panneaux en chemin.</p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">L’altitude</span> : ce qu’il ne fait surtout pas négliger au risque de faire demi-tour avant le sommet. Salento étant à presque 2000m, c’est mieux d’y passer 1 journée complète avant de monter. La pause à 3500m ou 3700m parait aussi nécessaire avant de filer vers les 4500m. C’est pourquoi la boucle parait plus faisable en 4 jours pour respecter l’acclamation du corps à l’effort en altitude.</p>
<p><strong>1er jour : de Cocora à la Finca Buenos Aires (3700m, 5h à 6h, 1500m d+, 12 km)</strong></p>
<p>Cette étape se fait en une fois ou, si l’on préfère s’acclimater plus progressivement, en 2 fois en faisant une étape à la Finca Argentina à 3450m, et une pause le lendemain à Buenos Aires en laissant l’acclimatation se faire toute seule, donc sans rien faire !</p>
<p>Depuis Cocora, marcher sur la piste qui traverse le hameau et les installations touristiques pour rejoindre le lit du torrent Cardenas qu’on va globalement suivre en rive gauche jusqu’à la maison isolée de la Cascada, sauf au départ où on le croise 2 fois sur des troncs avec un petit câble tendu. Juste après, ça monte légèrement pour redescendre et franchir le torrent à nouveau sur un pont fait de troncs et câble. Derrière, l’ascension débute et le sentier monte de façon plus soutenue. À plus de 2900m, il y a un replat avec une bifurcation indiquée vers Santa Lucia. Continuer en descendant pour passer un petit torrent sur  quelques troncs au fond d’un talweg. Ça remonte pour franchir les 3000m puis 3200m, on découvre petit à petit la vallée du rio Cardenas qui s’enfonce devant nous. Il y a ensuite une assez longue section plus plate et vallonnée autour de 3300m. On traverse plus loin un nouveau torrent pour une dernière ascension et rejoindre la Finca Argentina. 4h à 5h de marche depuis Cocora.</p>
<p>Une halte est possible là, chez Javier et sa famille ou bien poursuivre jusqu’à la Finca Buenos Aires un peu au-dessus et un peu plus avancée dans la vallée, à 1 heure environ. La Finca est tenue par Enrique, seul avec ses chevaux, ses vaches, ses chiens et son chat. Plus petite que Argentina, la vue est superbe, plus ouverte et on aperçoit déjà un bout du Paramillo del Quindio tout au fond de la vallée.</p>
<p><strong>2ème jour : de la Finca Buenos Aires au camp de base du Paramillo del Quindio (4200m, 3h)</strong></p>
<p>Sortir de la Finca Buenos Aires et à la première bifurcation, monter dans un terrain de plus en plus dégagé. On voit apparaître les premiers frailejones et le sentier mène sur un plateau supérieur à plus de 4000m tapissé de frailejones. Dans notre dos, avec de la chance, on aperçoit le sommet du nevado du Tolima, spectaculaire. Là, après environ 45′ de marche, il y a une bifurcation en Y : en poursuivant légèrement à gauche, c’est la route vers la Finca Berlin, légèrement à droite, on file vers le camp de base. Monter pour passer une arête et basculer de l’autre coté en accédant à un grand vallon supérieur et une zone de marécage au centre. Le sentier descend un peu et va, au milieu des frailejones, décrire une grande courbe par la gauche et remonter en face jusqu’à passer une nouvelle arête, environ 1h50 après le départ, tout ça autour des 4100m d’altitude.</p>
<p>Passée l’arête on découvre alors le cirque du Paramillo tout en fond de vallée du Cardenas. Suivre le sentier bien marqué qui va s’enfoncer progressivement, dans une longue traversée, sans perdre ni gagner trop de dénivelé et rejoindre la base du cirque sous une petite cascade qui est probablement la source du Cardenas, au delà des marécages. Monter d’un palier en passant à gauche de la petite cascade et là se trouve un replat, au pied du cirque, le camp de base à 4200m.</p>
<p><strong>2ème jour : du camp de base au sommet du Paramillo del Quindio (4690m, 1h30 à 2h)</strong></p>
<p>La distance à parcourir est courte lais l’effort intense vue l’altitude et l’inclinaison de la pente. Le sentier qui mène à la crête coté Ouest est évident et se voit bien tracé dans les pentes sablonneuses noires et orangée. Plus on monte plus c’est raide et le sable n’aide pas pour progresser. On accède alors à la crête entre une montagne noire en forme de pyramide (à gauche) et le sommet du Quindio Nord ( à droite) au bout de la crête. On est déjà à plus de 4500m. Reste alors à remonter la rampe formée par la crête arrondie de sable dur et d’une fine pellicule de neige aujourd’hui jusqu’au sommet à presque 4700m. Final éprouvant mais du sommet la vue est incroyable : le nevado de  Santa Isabel au Nord, le Tolima au Sud-Est, la lagune argentée de la Leona à nos pieds. Spectaculaire !</p>
<p><strong>2ème jour : du sommet du Paramillo del Quindio à la Finca Primavera (3740m, 2h30 à 3h)</strong></p>
<p>Redescendre au camp de base en utilisant cette fois les pentes sablonneuses à son avantage et revenir au niveau de la grande zone de marécages. Traverser les marécages peut s’avérer délicat car il y a des trous d’eau et on peut y mettre toute la jambes. Soit se décaler coté gauche dès le départ, soit tenter de traverser en restant longtemps en terrain dur mais dans tous les cas, il fait rejoindre un sentier bien marqué qui court coté gauche un peu en hauteur, sur un rebord qui cache en fait 2 petits étangs.Une fois sur ce sentier filer tout droit en s’éloignant progressivement du cirque du Paramillo.</p>
<p>Passer sous de petites barres rocheuse noires et franchir une clôture. Juste a près, bifurquer sur un sentier qui va traverser et remonter en diagonale sur le flanc gauche de la montagne. Remonter en visant la crête, passer une petite cuvette et pas loin d’un nouveau petit étang argenté. Une fois sur la crête au niveau d’un large col, le sentier monte sur une première bosse puis de poursuit longtemps sur le fil de la crête, avec du plat et une seconde petite bosse à négocier mais sans difficulté. On a coté droit une vue aérienne sur la vallée du Cardenas et on peut apprécier tout l’itinéraire de l’aller coté opposé.</p>
<p>Enfin, après cette longue traversée autour des 4000m, le sentier descend pour rejoindre un col et un sentier visible de loin et qui part en travers au Sud-Est. Le suivre en traversant puis en descendant pour dévaler jusqu’à la Finca Primavera, face au cratère du Tolima.</p>
<p><strong>3ème jour : de la Finca Primavera à Cocora (4h30 à 5h30)</strong></p>
<p>Le chemin de la Finca Primavera jusqu’à Cocora est long et assez éprouvant, avec un bon dénivelé négatif.  Sortir de la Finca par le haut et suivre le large sentier hyper boueux pour s’extraire progressivement de la vallée du Tolima. On se rapproche des 4000m pour accéder un un grand plateau supérieur de páramo peuplé de frailejone. On trouve assez vite la bifurcation vers la finca Estrella de Agua. Longue traversée vallonnée en suivant les petit panneaux de bois qui indiquent los Romerales. Puis ça descend un peu sur la gauche pour traverser un pont de bois et remonter jusqu’à franchir un col devant une énorme dent. On est à la limite entre le département du Quidio et du Tolima.</p>
<p>On accède à un petit vallon qu’on traverse en restant en hauteur et franchir au bout un nouveau petit col qui fait basculer dans la vallée qui mènera tout en bas au lit du rio Quindio. Ça descend cette fois en continu, jusqu’à atteindre le niveau de la forêt vers 3700m d’altitude. Débute alors une grande descente en forêt dans un sentier en forme de tranchée, parfois très étroite, en pleine végétation. Touit en bas, le sentier rejoint enfin le Quidio pour le suivre en passant en rive gauche jusqu’à la Finca Estrella de Agua à 3240m. 2h30 à 3h depuis la Finca Primavera. On peut faire une pause café.</p>
<p>Reste encore du chemin à parcourir pour sortir à Cocora, 2h à 2h30. Longer le torrent puis le sentier monte en contre-haut pour une longue section d’alternance de montée et descente qui casse un peu les jambes. Retour progressif de la forêt tropicale. Au bout, ça redescend de façon abrupte et soutenue pour retrouver le lit du Quindio et le franchir une première fois sur un pont de bois suspendu un peu branlant sécurisé par des câbles un peu rouillés… mais ça passe. On entre alors dans un parcours aménagé du parc de Cocora (entrée payante coté Cocora, 5000 pesos). Suivre le lit du torrent et franchir 6 ou 7 ponts suspendus tous aussi bralants les uns que les autres. L’itinéraire est agréable et original. On sort finalement sur de magnifiques pentes herbeuses où des vaches colorées paissent tranquillement et avec les silhouettes fines et démesurées des palmiers de cire qui s’élancent vers le ciel. Sortir du parc, payer éventuellement les 5000 pesos si le gardien est là et rejoindre la rue principale où se trouve le parking des jeeps pour le retour sur Salento.</p>

galerie

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