ACF Posts Migration

presentation

<p>À quelques kilomètres de la célèbre paroi d’Oliana, le secteur d’escalade sportive de l’Obaga Negra, niché au détour de l’un des méandres du Segre, offre une belle série de voies plein Sud sur un rocher de première qualité. Spot idéal pour grimper en hiver, protégé du vent et au soleil, les voies sont très bien équipées. Mises à part quelques voies dans le IV/V, la majorité des lignes est dans le 6. La paroi striée de petites fissures horizontales rend les voies toutes un peu similaires mais très agréables, avec des lignes bien verticales et un festival de prises franches. Un bel endroit pour passer une journée au calme et progresser dans le 6.</p>

fiche_technique

<p>Type ✦ Escalade sportive<br />
Lieu ✦ Coll de Nargo<br />
Région ✦ Alt Urgell, Catalunya<br />
Pays ✦ Espagne<br />
Orientation ✦ Sud<br />
Difficulté ✦ 4c à 6c+<br />
Longueur ✦ 33m maximum<br />
Intérêt ✦ ★★</p>

acces_au_site

<p>En partant de Coll de Nargo, rouler sur la C14 en direction du Sud. Traverser un bras du Segre puis la route remonte et plus haut, avant le replat, tourner à gauche pour prendre l’ancienne petite route. Après quelques virages, la petite route passe sous la C14 pour revenir le long du Segre et passer un petit pont au-dessus d’un autre petit bras du fleuve. Là, juste après à droite, se trouve le sentier d’accès au secteur de grimpe. Continuer un peu sur la route pour se garer sur un replat à gauche de la petite route, juste avant que celle-ci ne rejoigne à nouveau la C14.</p>

carte_iframe

[iframe width="100%" height="500px" frameBorder="0" allowfullscreen src="https://framacarte.org/fr/map/obaga-negra-coll-de-nargo_85762?scaleControl=true&miniMap=false&scrollWheelZoom=false&zoomControl=true&allowEdit=false&moreControl=true&searchControl=null&tilelayersControl=null&embedControl=true&datalayersControl=true&onLoadPanel=undefined&captionBar=true&fullscreenControl=true"]
<p><a href="https://framacarte.org/fr/map/obaga-negra-coll-de-nargo_85762">Voir en plein écran</a></p>

parcours

<p>L’équipement en place sont en très bon état. Certains départs sont exposés mais globalement on peut grimper en toute sécurité. Les relais que nous avons vus sont chainés, certains ont un mousqueton de sécurité pour éviter la manip du maillon rapide. Le rocher est très bon, aucun endroit patiné. Seules les voies qu’on a testées sont décrites ci-dessous.</p>
<p><strong>Mi Negra (IV+, 5 bolts)</strong></p>
<p>Voie facile homogène dans le niveau, bien pour prendre contact avec le rocher.</p>
<p><strong>Arriba i Moldre (5b, 4 bolts)</strong></p>
<p>1 pas entre le 2ème et le 3ème bolt pour franchir un petit bombé. Le reste est très facile (III).</p>
<p><strong>Androide (5c, 4 bolts)</strong></p>
<p>C’est plus vertical. La difficulté est en fait sur le départ, fin, pour atteindre le rebord et les fissures horizontales. Après c’est « backistan », de belles prises pour progresser.</p>
<p><strong>La Guineu (6a, 5 bolts)</strong></p>
<p>Le pas est dans le départ avec un bombé à négocier (bien protégé). La suite est verticale, assez athlétique mais plus facile, avec de belles prises. Nouveau « backistan ».</p>
<p><strong>Su Vaig Dir (6a, 4 bolts)</strong></p>
<p>Pas de départ où il fait bien s’allonger puis se rétablir.  La suite est plus facile, dans les fissures horizontales.</p>
<p><strong>La Tarter dels Maneirons (6a, 8 bolts)</strong></p>
<p>Voie plus longue (25m environ), plus soutenue et homogène que les précédentes.</p>
<p><strong>Calcarius Deliciosus (6a+)</strong></p>
<p>La même que sa voisine en 6a, peut-être légèrement plus soutenue ?</p>
<p><strong>Sense Piles (6b+)</strong></p>
<p>Le crux au dessus du 4ème bolt avec un section fine et verticale. La suite est moins dure, soutenue mais avec des prises franches.</p>

<p>L’équipement en place sont en très bon état. Certains départs sont exposés mais globalement on peut grimper en toute sécurité. Les relais que nous avons vus sont chainés, certains ont un mousqueton de sécurité pour éviter la manip du maillon rapide. Le rocher est très bon, aucun endroit patiné. Seules les voies qu’on a testées sont décrites ci-dessous.</p>
<p><strong>Mi Negra (IV+, 5 bolts)</strong></p>
<p>Voie facile homogène dans le niveau, bien pour prendre contact avec le rocher.</p>
<p><strong>Arriba i Moldre (5b, 4 bolts)</strong></p>
<p>1 pas entre le 2ème et le 3ème bolt pour franchir un petit bombé. Le reste est très facile (III).</p>
<p><strong>Androide (5c, 4 bolts)</strong></p>
<p>C’est plus vertical. La difficulté est en fait sur le départ, fin, pour atteindre le rebord et les fissures horizontales. Après c’est « backistan », de belles prises pour progresser.</p>
<p><strong>La Guineu (6a, 5 bolts)</strong></p>
<p>Le pas est dans le départ avec un bombé à négocier (bien protégé). La suite est verticale, assez athlétique mais plus facile, avec de belles prises. Nouveau « backistan ».</p>
<p><strong>Su Vaig Dir (6a, 4 bolts)</strong></p>
<p>Pas de départ où il fait bien s’allonger puis se rétablir.  La suite est plus facile, dans les fissures horizontales.</p>
<p><strong>La Tarter dels Maneirons (6a, 8 bolts)</strong></p>
<p>Voie plus longue (25m environ), plus soutenue et homogène que les précédentes.</p>
<p><strong>Calcarius Deliciosus (6a+)</strong></p>
<p>La même que sa voisine en 6a, peut-être légèrement plus soutenue ?</p>
<p><strong>Sense Piles (6b+)</strong></p>
<p>Le crux au dessus du 4ème bolt avec un section fine et verticale. La suite est moins dure, soutenue mais avec des prises franches.</p>

retour

<p>Descente un peu glissante pour revenir sur la petite route.</p>

galerie

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S0,9.339,0,21.082s9.518,21.26,21.26,21.26c5.361,0,10.244-1.999,13.983-5.272l14.292,14.292L51.539,49.356z M2.835,21.082 c0-10.176,8.249-18.425,18.425-18.425s18.425,8.249,18.425,18.425S31.436,39.507,21.26,39.507S2.835,31.258,2.835,21.082z"/></svg></span></figcaption></a></figure><figure  class='dgwt-jg-item' data-size='800x1200' data-sub-html=''><a  href='https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/2020-10-19_12-47-18-Obaga-Negra.jpg'><img src="https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/2020-10-19_12-47-18-Obaga-Negra-133x200.jpg" data-jg-srcset="https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/2020-10-19_12-47-18-Obaga-Negra-133x200.jpg 133w, https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/2020-10-19_12-47-18-Obaga-Negra-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/2020-10-19_12-47-18-Obaga-Negra-683x1024.jpg 683w, https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/2020-10-19_12-47-18-Obaga-Negra.jpg 800w" sizes="(max-width: 133px) 100vw, 133px" /><figcaption class="dgwt-jg-caption"><span class="dgwt-jg-caption__font--14"><svg version="1.1" class="dgwt-rwpgg-ico-loupe" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" fill="#FFFFFF" width="28px" height="28px" viewBox="0 0 51 51" xml:space="preserve"><path d="M51.539,49.356L37.247,35.065c3.273-3.74,5.272-8.623,5.272-13.983c0-11.742-9.518-21.26-21.26-21.26 S0,9.339,0,21.082s9.518,21.26,21.26,21.26c5.361,0,10.244-1.999,13.983-5.272l14.292,14.292L51.539,49.356z M2.835,21.082 c0-10.176,8.249-18.425,18.425-18.425s18.425,8.249,18.425,18.425S31.436,39.507,21.26,39.507S2.835,31.258,2.835,21.082z"/></svg></span></figcaption></a></figure><figure  class='dgwt-jg-item' data-size='1800x1200' data-sub-html=''><a  href='https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/2020-10-19_13-06-39-Obaga-Negra.jpg'><img src="https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/2020-10-19_13-06-39-Obaga-Negra-300x200.jpg" data-jg-srcset="https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/2020-10-19_13-06-39-Obaga-Negra-300x200.jpg 300w, https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/2020-10-19_13-06-39-Obaga-Negra-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/2020-10-19_13-06-39-Obaga-Negra-768x512.jpg 768w, https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/2020-10-19_13-06-39-Obaga-Negra.jpg 1800w" sizes="(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /><figcaption class="dgwt-jg-caption"><span class="dgwt-jg-caption__font--14"><svg version="1.1" class="dgwt-rwpgg-ico-loupe" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" fill="#FFFFFF" width="28px" height="28px" viewBox="0 0 51 51" xml:space="preserve"><path d="M51.539,49.356L37.247,35.065c3.273-3.74,5.272-8.623,5.272-13.983c0-11.742-9.518-21.26-21.26-21.26 S0,9.339,0,21.082s9.518,21.26,21.26,21.26c5.361,0,10.244-1.999,13.983-5.272l14.292,14.292L51.539,49.356z M2.835,21.082 c0-10.176,8.249-18.425,18.425-18.425s18.425,8.249,18.425,18.425S31.436,39.507,21.26,39.507S2.835,31.258,2.835,21.082z"/></svg></span></figcaption></a></figure><figure  class='dgwt-jg-item' data-size='1800x1200' data-sub-html='<h4>Dans Su Vaig Dir (6a)</h4>'><a  href='https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/2020-10-19_13-07-30-Obaga-Negra.jpg'><img src="https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/2020-10-19_13-07-30-Obaga-Negra-300x200.jpg" data-jg-srcset="https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/2020-10-19_13-07-30-Obaga-Negra-300x200.jpg 300w, https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/2020-10-19_13-07-30-Obaga-Negra-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/2020-10-19_13-07-30-Obaga-Negra-768x512.jpg 768w, https://climbing7.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/2020-10-19_13-07-30-Obaga-Negra.jpg 1800w" sizes="(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /><figcaption class="dgwt-jg-caption"><span class="dgwt-jg-caption__font--14"><svg 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