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Via Normal a la Momieta, Montserrat, Spain

Publié le 13 November 2010 | Catalunya Eng, Spain

The rock is located on the eastern side of Montserrat, above the monastery and just in front of the Elefant. The normal route to Momieta is both aerial and very accessible, perfect for a short autumn outing, on one of the characteristic needles of the Sant Benet sector, with an extraordinary aerial view of the Llobregat, the Sant Llorenç del Munt natural park, the sea in the distance and the easternmost part of the Pyrenees (nothing less!). Well equipped, with the exception of the first pitch, which is a little exposed, it's also an ideal route for learning how to use the "terrain d'av'", and how to use merlet and longes on the sabines (L3) in the large final dihedral. In short, a very good plan and a very pleasant climb, not to mention the abseiling descent between Momieta and Momia, which is also well worth the trip.

Technical summary

Access to the place

From Barcelona, take the A2 towards Lerida and exit at Hotel du Bruc (exit no. 572). Immediately after, turn right towards Manresa and Montserrat. The road winds up to the Can Maçana pass. After the pass, turn right onto the road that runs along the northern cliffs of the massif towards the monastery. Park just before the entrance to the monastery parking lot, on a right-hand bend, where there's a roadside space to leave your car. The entrance road for the approach is a little further ahead, on the previous bend.

Map & topo

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 45'

Climb straight up the canal del Pou del Gat (which avoids crossing the monastery!) in 20′ to reach the GR-4 further up, which we take to the left as far as the Pla de la Trinitat. Here you can already see the Momia and Momieta peaks above you. Continue along the right-hand path to the chapelle de la Trinitat a little further up. Continue along the path that passes under the Momieta. Once you've reached the south-east side of the needle, take a path under the trees that goes off at right angles and leads directly to the foot of the small pass between Momieta and Momia. In fact, the 2 needles are welded together, or Siamese twins, and you have to climb quite high just before the junction to find the start of the route.

Course

The route, opened in 2002, faces south-east and is 95m long in 3 pitches (20m, 25m, 50m). Bring 10 quickdraws, lanyards for sabines and belays, 1 recoverable plate. Level is IV/V max.

L1 (20m, IV+/V)

Climb straight up to reach a rounded ledge (V) and the first nail. Then simply traverse horizontally, except that the equipment leaves much to be desired. The belay points are a long way apart, so the length is rather exposed. Between the 2nd and 3rd nails, you can equip an old buril with a recoverable plate. Go around the rock to get some gas under your feet and reach belay R1.

L2 (25m, IV+/V)

This pitch is well equipped. Climb straight up to the top of the belay (V) and then slightly to the left towards the large overhang above us. 0 at the end go back a little to the right to find belay R2 under the large dihedral that forms the final section.

L3 (50m, IV+)

Magnificent pitch with a breathtaking view. The dihedral is easy and the holds are good. Equip a rock (merlet) before the first point and the 3 sabines that grow in the hollow of the fault on the left for the next 30m. At the top, continue up the dihedral on the left (III) to reach the R3 belay, a little below the top of the needle.

Back

2 big rappels to do. The first is on the west face, just opposite La Momia. The abseil is around 25m long, very aerial and takes us to the small col linking the 2 needles. The second, on the south side between the 2 walls, is a 40m abseil in a sort of chimney down to the ground, where the route begins.Go back down the path to Trinitat and in the opposite direction ⁾by the canal del Pou del Gat to the parking lot.