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Viatge Apatxe a la Pastereta, Montserrat, Spain

Publié le 28 June 2012 | Catalunya Eng, Spain

The route climbs the west face of Serrat de la Pastereta, south of Montserrat, level with the Clot de la Monica. It looks like a huge slab in the shape of an inverted triangle, ending up on the ridge. With the exception of the first pitch, which can be considered an approach pitch (but in IV), the route is very well equipped, generously so, and the rock is excellent. The difficulty gradually rises, and the final pitch, an athletic 6b, completes the climb. Ratings are accurate except for the L4 starting pitch, announced as V+, but frankly it's worth a 6a because of its slight overhang and fine holds... Other routes are just around the corner and make you want to climb them. Notably the via Kraken, which goes straight up the triangle in the middle, and its even more vertical final pitch (6b+). Reasons to come back soon

Technical summary

Access to the place

From Barcelona. Exit at Collbató and go up to the top of the village to catch the track leading to Vinya Nova. Just before you reach Vinya Nova, there's a wider, flatter parking area with a footpath off to the right across the Clot de la Monica. Park here. You can easily see the recognizable Pastereta above you.

Map & topo

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start

From the parking lot. Climb up the path, which runs due north on almost level ground. Further on, follow the small path which continues along the same axis with blue markings in the shrubbery. The Pastereta is in sight. The path climbs steeply, winding up to the Serrat d'En Muntaner. Above this, there's a small fork to the right (kairn) which leads right to the foot of the wall, on the western flank of La Pastereta. When you reach the base of the rock, or just before it, turn left to climb up to the tip of the "triangle". The path descends slightly and follows the base of the wall. Then climb up a small channel with stones and shrubs in all directions. At the end, a knotted rope brings you to the foot of the route. The name Viatge Apatxe is written in black.

Course

The route is 145m in 5 pitches (40m, 30m, 20m, 30m, 25m). Equipment is good, 11 quickdraws are required.

L1 (40m, IV)

Approach pitch. A single nail on the 1st wall. Then there's a flat area where you walk in the middle, followed by a 2nd small sloping wall to reach the foot of the large triangle, the real start of the route. (The Kraken starts on the right).

L2 (30m, V+)

Start on the left and the whole length runs a little diagonally to the left. Nice rock, fairly fine but straight holds, holes and a slightly trickier pitch in the middle to finish at the R2 belay.

L3 (20m, 6a)

Shorter but very nice, vertical pitch. The start is V+, then the middle is finer. You have to zigzag a bit to find your way. The equipment is impeccable, the length sustained. The R3 belay is just to the right of a bulge. We followed up with L4, but the belay looks less comfortable...

L4 (30m, V+/6a)

It's the starting pitch that's pretty hard. V+? I can see a 6a here, as there's a slight overhang and thin holds, so there's a step. We finish on III/IV to reach the R4 belay on a small ledge at the foot of the final wall and to the right of a shrub.

L5 (25m, 6b)

A beautiful, sustained and ultimately quite athletic pitch. Climb left to the shrubbery for the right-hand start with 2 or 3 finot steps and then the route goes right diagonally and then almost horizontally. There are some very nice holes to pass through without too much difficulty, but remember to save your energy! After this bend (remember to use a long quickdraw to avoid friction), go straight up. It's still an athletic climb, with good vertical holds. A finer step in the middle before reaching the final lip where there's a nice step again to negotiate at the end of the route, the forearms a little blown off to tell the truth...

Back

Either retrace the route in reverse, then follow the approach path in the opposite direction. Or, as we did, climb back up the Pastereta ridge to the north and, after at least 10 minutes' walk, join and cross the path leading from Clot de la Monica to Sant Joan (blue markings). Cut it off at a bend, go down to the left and after 30′ of descent, pass the starting approach again. Follow the opposite path to the parking lot.