Sac de Paciencia a la Pastereta, Montserrat, Spain

Climbing

Publié le 11 June 2012 |

Located on the west face of La Pastereta, in the Clot de la Monica sector of Montserrat South, the route climbs a superb, almost vertical slab over 2 nice, sustained and homogeneous pitches. The route is short and fairly well equipped, but you really have to climb between the nails, and sometimes it's a bit far in the first pitch. The start of L2 needs protecting, however, as the first point is at least 10m away. There's 1 hole where you can place a medium (0.5) stopper. The 1st pitch seems to be more sustained, especially in its 1st part, while the second is quite nice, with straightforward holds. As the name suggests, take your time to find the best route, sometimes with a step to the right or left depending on the possibilities. You can continue with its neighbor, the Cuervix, another 90m route in 2 pitches in 6a+, or the Zoé, a 35m route in 6c on the far left (new pads), or join the sport sector on the east face of the Serrat d'En Muntaner to complete the day.

Technical summary

Access to the place

From Barcelona. Exit at Collbató and go up to the top of the village to catch the track leading to Vinya Nova. Just before you reach Vinya Nova, there's a wider, flatter parking area with a footpath off to the right across the Clot de la Monica. Park here. You can easily see the recognizable Pastereta above you.

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start

From the parking lot, follow the path upwards, which heads due north on almost level ground. Further on, follow the small path that continues in the same direction, with blue markings in the shrubbery. The Pastereta is in sight. The path climbs steeply, winding its way up to the needle, passing the Serrat d'En Muntaner. Above this, there's a small fork to the right (kairn) which leads right to the foot of the wall, on the western flank of the Pastereta. Climb a little to the right at the base of the rock and you'll arrive at the foot of the slab. 3 lines of nails: the 1st is a sporty one (via Zoé). The second, just beside it, is 6a+ (the Cuervix) and the 3rd, a few metres from the central crack, is the right one. 1st nail high, above the ledge.

Course

The route is 80m long with 2 equal lengths of 40m. It is fully equipped.

L1 (40m, 6a)

A slightly exposed start up to the 1st high nail, but no difficulty. Then a fine 1st section in 6a, where you have to position yourself well and look for the best way to pass smoothly. The route leads towards the shrubbery, without approaching the crack on the right. Higher up, the distance between the nails is considerable... you really have to commit yourself. The end of the pitch is easier, with a large crack and the R1 belay just above the 2nd shrub.

L2 (40m, 6a)

It's the start that's problematic. In the V, a little diagonally to the left, but a 1st nail more than 10m away. Take care to hide at the bottom of R1, with a point to return to in case of a fall. It's all very well, but it's all in your head. You can apparently place a medium-sized friend in a hole to protect yourself (but we didn't have the right one...). Next, there's a slight overhang in 6a with good holds. The route changes direction a little to the right. What follows is also very pleasant. The route curves slightly to the left to reach the very comfortable R2 belay.