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Via Africa a la Paret del Grau, Coll de Nargo, Spain

Publié le 2 July 2013 | Catalunya Eng, Spain

Nice weather at last! After a night's recuperation in Organya, we head for Coll de Nargo on the banks of the Pantano d'Oliana. Extraordinary scenery, green, rocky and sunny! Above the village, two gigantic ridges, like two petrified ridges from the Triassic era, offer a host of climbing routes in a splendid setting. For a refresher course in limestone, we aim for the end of the Paret del Grau with the via Africa in V+ before moving on, after a good siesta for the sportswoman next door, to the other rock, in the Coll Piqué sector. A highly recommendable spot, with plenty to do for the whole week and a 5-star bivouac.

Technical summary

Access to the place

Take the C14 up into Andorra. Below Organya, take the fork to Coll de Nargo and Issona on the 511. On leaving the village, almost opposite an old church, turn right and follow Coll Piqué. A large hairpin bend then passes under the first 2 sectors to reach the small pass at the foot of a huge vertical boulder.

Map & topo

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 10'

Take the main path straight up to Paret del Grau to reach the base, then follow a small path to the base of the rock. The route starts here, on the steepest part.

Course

The southeast-facing route is well equipped, even if some of the nails are a bit far away. 90m in 3 pitches (30m, 20m, 40m). Excellent limestone, exceptional views of the pantalon and riu Segre.

L1 (30m, V)

Easy but with a V pitch at the start, or even a small V+.

L2 (20m, V)

More homogeneous length in V, slab with some nice straight holds, small cracks and good tubs.

L3 (40m, V/V+)

Cross to the right, then climb back up to easy IV+ terrain before the final wall, which is vertical, athletic and has good holds, and is definitely worth V+. You reach the ridge.

Back

Abseil on the same route. 1st rappel to relay 2 (preferable as there is vegetation), then a second rappel to the ground in 1 go. 10 min walk in opposite direction to the parking lot.