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Triarca a la Paret del Grau, Coll de Nargo, Spain

Publié le 20 August 2014 | Catalunya Eng, Spain

Another trip to the Paret del Grau above Coll de Nargo, in the left-hand sector, to discover a 1st quality route, again a little more sustained and committed. La Triarca, just to the left of the Sandokan, is 3 pitches of perfect rock, a varied sport climb that progressively climbs from 6a to 6b. The equipment is impeccable overall, even if a few points could be better placed (to avoid bouncing back onto the rock) and, above all, a bolt is obviously missing at L3 on a slab that is admittedly easy but involves an unnecessary risk. The route remains excellent, and a small friend will provide protection if needed.

Technical summary

Access to the place

Go to the village of Coll de Nargo on the C14 between d'Oliana and Organya, under the Seu d'Urgell and Andorra. Enter the village, cross it and at the exit, level with an old bell tower, turn right towards Coll Piqué. Climb up, the asphalt becomes a track and you come to a small pass, between the Paret del Grau on the left and the sports areas on the right. Park here, next to a large rocky tooth.

Map & topo

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 15'

Quick and obvious. Climb a small path marked towards the rock to reach the parer. Continue along the wall, past the orange overhanging areas and finally around a sort of grey ramp to find the start of the route (see route photo).

Course

The south-facing route is 80m long in 3 pitches (30m, 25m, 25m). Fully equipped, you'll need 12 quickdraws and one or 2 small friends to protect the L3 slab. Compulsory level is 6b.

L1 (30m, 6a+)

Quiet start to arrive under a 1st small wall on the left (6a). Continue on a slightly sloping slab to the 2nd wall with a more physical step to exit onto a flat and climb the R1 belay.

L2 (25m, 6a+)

Homogeneous, sustained length, flat areas for the hands and a series of jumps to overcome. Foot placement is important to avoid giving up too much strength. Take the chained belay on the left, not the one in the axis which corresponds to R2 on the Sandokan route. Very nice length.

L3 (25m, 6b)

Cross to the left, descending a little to tackle a sloping slab, without difficulty but with a missing point between the 2 bolts (6m well exposed). Use a friend (0.5 ?) that can be placed halfway up a hole. Exit onto a small flat area and link the last few meters with 2 or 3 technical moves in 6b, then join the R3 belay below the ridge.