TOPO Climbing | CLIMBING7.COM

Topless a la Pastereta, Montserrat

Publié le 27 December 2015 | Catalunya Eng, Spain

A sunny return to Montserrat, and more precisely to Pastereta for Topless, one of the routes on the south-west face, with a promising name and not too long for a short winter afternoon. On arrival, a pretty 3-pitch route, with a bit of level, well equipped on top-quality rock. The finale of L1 and L2 is well worth the detour. You can finish off your forearms on Zoc (6c), a solid pitch just a little to the left of the start of Topless.

Technical summary

Type ✦ Large equipped route

Location ✦ Vinya Nova, Montserrat Sud

Region ✦ Catalunya

Country ✦ Spain

Orientation ✦ South-West

Lengths ✦ 3

Vertical drop ✦ 120m

Difficulty max ✦ 6c

Interest ✦ ★

Access to the place

Take the A2 from Barcelona towards Lleida and exit at Bruc (572). Make a U-turn at the exit, then cross the housing estate to enter the forest and reach the Vinya Nova restaurant. Park there (the access road is now closed to cars).

Map & topo

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 30’

From the parking lot, follow the track towards Collbato (east). After a bend and a short climb, pass an olive grove and turn left (Clot de la Monica). Follow the wide track, then continue along a well-marked path. You'll pass under the Serrat d'En Muntaner (sports routes), then further up, a little below the base of the Pastereta, turn right onto a tiny path that leads to the foot of the cliff. Follow the base and reach the foot of the route, at the foot of a crack. This is the same starting point as the Funcio Clorofilica route.

Course

The Topless is 120m (50m, 35m, 35m) south-west-facing and fully equipped, although one or two small belayers can be used at the start of L1. Compulsory level is 6c (L2), 15 quickdraws and a 2x60m.

Length 1 (50m, 6a+)

Start under the tree and follow the slab to the left of the crack. A small V+ wall then a flat area before tackling the 6a+ wall on the right, with a few nice holes. The final climb is steady and you come out at the foot of a tree, R1 belay on the left.

Length 2 (35m, 6c)

Sustained vertical climb to the 3rd nail, with a harder, finer pitch (6c). The second part of the pitch is still sustained (6a) before finishing on easier ground to belay R2.