A sunny return to Montserrat, and more precisely to Pastereta for Topless, one of the routes on the south-west face, with a promising name and not too long for a short winter afternoon. On arrival, a pretty 3-pitch route, with a bit of level, well equipped on top-quality rock. The finale of L1 and L2 is well worth the detour. You can finish off your forearms on Zoc (6c), a solid pitch just a little to the left of the start of Topless.
Technical summary
Type ✦ Large equipped route
Location ✦ Vinya Nova, Montserrat Sud
Region ✦ Catalunya
Country ✦ Spain
Orientation ✦ South-West
Lengths ✦ 3
Vertical drop ✦ 120m
Difficulty max ✦ 6c
Interest ✦ ★
Access to the place
Take the A2 from Barcelona towards Lleida and exit at Bruc (572). Make a U-turn at the exit, then cross the housing estate to enter the forest and reach the Vinya Nova restaurant. Park there (the access road is now closed to cars).
Itinerary description
Hiking to the start 30’
From the parking lot, follow the track towards Collbato (east). After a bend and a short climb, pass an olive grove and turn left (Clot de la Monica). Follow the wide track, then continue along a well-marked path. You'll pass under the Serrat d'En Muntaner (sports routes), then further up, a little below the base of the Pastereta, turn right onto a tiny path that leads to the foot of the cliff. Follow the base and reach the foot of the route, at the foot of a crack. This is the same starting point as the Funcio Clorofilica route.
Course
The Topless is 120m (50m, 35m, 35m) south-west-facing and fully equipped, although one or two small belayers can be used at the start of L1. Compulsory level is 6c (L2), 15 quickdraws and a 2x60m.
Length 1 (50m, 6a+)
Start under the tree and follow the slab to the left of the crack. A small V+ wall then a flat area before tackling the 6a+ wall on the right, with a few nice holes. The final climb is steady and you come out at the foot of a tree, R1 belay on the left.
Length 2 (35m, 6c)
Sustained vertical climb to the 3rd nail, with a harder, finer pitch (6c). The second part of the pitch is still sustained (6a) before finishing on easier ground to belay R2.
Length 3 (35m, IV+)
Just the right length to finish. Only 3 bolts for 40m, but it's easy. Nice view from the summit of La Pastereta.
Back
3 rappels in the next route, then the approach route in the opposite direction. The Zoc route (6c) is on the same wall, starting from the left.
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