TOPO Via ferrata
■ Course type: via ferrata with optional zip lines
■ Direction: south
■ Fitted length: 775 m
■ Vertical rise: +500 m
■ Estimated total time: 3h30 to 4h30
■ Min and max altitude: 1290 m / 1800 m
■ Equipment in place: excellent, rungs, 2 ladders, a monkey bridge and 2 Tibetan bridges, 2 ladders, one of which is very aerial and twisted (avoidable)
■ Equipment required: standard equipment
Difficulties: K4+ or D+ with 2 overhangs to overcome, distant rungs in the 3rd section forcing you to climb with the rock, impressive aerial dimension
Access to the place
Hiking to the start 20' à 30'
The Poi d'Unha ferrata is signposted from the village of Unha. Cross to the west and exit to the north on a fairly wide path. You soon fork onto a narrower path at a scree slope. The rest of the climb is fairly steep and sustained, a guaranteed warm-up before arriving at the foot of the route after crossing a second scree. We're at the foot of the 1st section.
Course 2h30 à 3h
The Poi d'Unha via ferrata, opened in 2014. It is built in 3 sections, with escape routes after each section. Difficulty increases from PD to TD. What makes the difference between the 2nd and 3rd sections, both rated K4, is above all the smaller spacing of the rungs in the 3rd section, forcing you to use the rock to climb, foot and hand holds. This would make it K4- then K4+ if we had to differentiate between them.
Part 1: Low Difficulty (45′)
A gentle start with a series of jumps equipped with rungs. There are also 2 small bridges on the way up and back: the Tibetan way up and the monkey bridge way back just above (lateral progression). The route continues with a fairly aerial traverse, followed by more jumps to negotiate without too much difficulty. In short, small walls, a few overhanging steps, just to warm up a little, gently.
At this point, you can leave the via ferrata and return along an east-facing path. Alternatively, turn left to the west, descend a little and walk to the foot of the 2nd section.
2nd section: Difficult (45′ to 1h)
It starts with a few small steps and soon arrives at the foot of the large orange wall that will serve as the main menu. A long series of increasingly vertical rungs leads to a sort of sloping platform where the twisted ladder can be found, avoidable by following the small wall on the left.
The ladder is not really difficult, but it is very aerial and vertical. Guaranteed atmosphere and impressive panorama. Exit higher up and a series of small vertical walls leads to the final difficulty of the section: an orange wall with an overhanging step where you have to pull a little on your arms.
Above, it continues on easier sloping slabs, then after a little walking, you reach a Tibetan bridge (avoidable) which you access with a rather invigorating mini-section. Finally, you emerge above on a final flat area: end of the 2nd section and escape route on the west side if you want to avoid the 3rd section.
3rd part: Very Difficult (1h to 1h15′)
A few transitional jumps, then a short walk to reach the main wall of the 3rd section.
It starts with an inclined ramp on the side of the wall, from which you have to exit with an airy step. The rest of the route remains aerial, steep and sustained, long and with a few slightly overhanging or more technical passages.
The end is steeper and a little easier. Here we find a second ladder, this time at a 45° angle, which takes us above a series of green-colored slabs, not very hard but where we have to use the rock. We pass a small ridge and then a final, not very difficult section to reach the end of the route, where the "piadas" can is located.
Continue upwards and slightly westwards, following the red markings. Further on, turn left (unmistakable arrow) and head due west this time down a fairly steep, earthy canal equipped with a cable. The path loops around to the west to return almost above the village of Unha, then crosses a PR much further down, which leads back to Unha on the left.