Obaga Negra

Climbing

Publié le 19 October 2020 |

Just a few kilometers from the famous Oliana wall, the Obaga Negra sport climbing area, nestled in one of the meanders of the Segre river, offers a fine series of south-facing routes on top-quality rock. An ideal spot for winter climbing, protected from the wind and sun, the routes are very well equipped. Apart from a few IV/V routes, the majority of lines are in the 6s. The wall is streaked with small horizontal cracks, making the routes all a little similar but very pleasant, with good vertical lines and a festival of straightforward holds. A great place to spend a quiet day and make progress in grade 6.

Technical summary

Type ✦ Sport climbing
Location ✦ Coll de Nargo
Region ✦ Alt Urgell, Catalunya
Country ✦ Spain
Direction ✦ South
Difficulty ✦ 4c to 6c+
Length ✦ 33m maximum
Interest ✦ ★★

Access to the place

From Coll de Nargo, drive south on the C14. Cross a branch of the Segre, then the road climbs back up, and before the flat, turn left onto the old minor road. After a few bends, the small road passes under the C14 to return along the Segre and cross a small bridge over another small branch of the river. Just after this, on the right, is the access path to the climbing area. Continue along the road for a while to park on a flat area to the left of the small road, just before it joins the C14 again.

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 15'

From the parking lot, backtrack along the road and, just before the bridge, take the little path (not very visible) up into a narrow, leafy valley. From the road, you can see the characteristic wall at the top. It's a steep climb and after 10', you emerge from the vegetation to find yourself almost opposite the wall. Cross over to the small area below or climb a little further to the 2nd floor.

Course

The equipment in place is in very good condition. Some of the starts are exposed, but on the whole it's safe climbing. The belays we saw are chain-linked, and some have a safety carabiner to prevent manipulation of the quick link. The rock is very good, with no slippery spots. Only the routes we tested are described below.

Mi Negra (IV+, 5 bolts)

An easy route of a uniform level, good for getting in touch with the rock.

Arriba i Moldre (5b, 4 bolts)

1 step between the 2nd and 3rd bolt to overcome a small bulge. The rest is very easy (III).

Androide (5c, 4 bolts)

More vertical. The difficulty lies in the fine start to reach the ledge and the horizontal cracks. After that, it's backistan, with some great holds to progress on.

La Guineu (6a, 5 bolts)

The pitch is at the start, with a bulge to negotiate (well protected). The rest is vertical, fairly athletic but easier, with some good holds. New backistan.

Su Vaig Dir (6a, 4 bolts)

A step where you have to lie down and recover. The rest is easier, in horizontal cracks.

La Tarter dels Maneirons (6a, 8 bolts)

Longer route (approx. 25m), more sustained and homogeneous than the previous ones.

Calcarius Deliciosus (6a+)

The same as its neighbor in 6a, perhaps slightly more sustained?

Sense Piles (6b+)

The crux above the 4th bolt with a thin, vertical section. The rest of the route is less hard, sustained but with clear holds.