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Rantanplán a la Magdalena Inferior, Montserrat, Spain

Publié le 17 March 2010 | Catalunya Eng, Spain

Another trip to the Gorras, in the heart of the Montserrat massif. After la Frigia and la Marinera, a vertical trip up the Magdalena inferior to discover via del Rantanplán (or Rataplán?), a reference to the Daltons comic strip? This route is accessible but quite tricky to climb, in a very delicate V shape. That day we started out with our feet in the snow, following the storm in Catalonia on March 8, and it's fair to say that we froze our fingers in style. It's fair to say that climbing the V without fingers is a bit tricky. It's a nice little climb all the same, but best avoided in winter!

Technical summary

Access to the place

The best way to enter Montserrat is via the monastery. From Barcelona, take the A2 towards Leida and exit at junction 572 after Le Bruc. Immediately afterwards, turn right at the petrol station towards Montserrat and Manresa. At the Can Maçana pass, turn right and follow the cliffs to the monastery. Park before entering the site, or pay 5 euros and park inside.

Map & topo

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 40'

Pass through the monastery to find the start of the GR4 at the end. Climb les escales dels pobres, cross el pas dels francesos to reach the crossroads at plaça de Santa Ana. Leave the GR4 to the right, go straight on and a little further on fork left to take the PR C-19. Follow this path and, at the first crossroads, turn left, then right again to wind up the cami nou de Sant Jeroni. Take this road to the right, go around the gorra Marinera and then take the path on the left that climbs to the escala de jacob. You then arrive at the foot of the Magdalena Inferior, and the via Rantanplán is the first on the right. It starts low in the trees. The signs are clearly visible and painted yellow.

Course

The north-facing route, opened in 1985, is 100m long in 3 pitches (35m, 30m, 35m). The equipment is good, 15 quickdraws are needed and the maximum level is in the V, which is quite thin.

L1 (35m, V)

Very well equipped, you'll need 15 quickdraws if you want to be sure of every point. The climbing is fine, the rock a little polished and there are few free holds, especially on the first 15 meters. The route climbs vertically and at the end is a little easier. Relay n°1 very well equipped.

L2 (30m, IV+)

Shorter and easier too. We're in the IV/IV+ range. Good holds for climbing. Starts a little to the left and then climbs vertically, slightly diagonally to the right. Very good belay here too.

L3 (35m, V)

In fact, there are 2 pitches here (25 + 10) on the route plan, but it's easily done in one go with a 70m rope. This is an easy, pleasant length that leads to the summit, where you can admire the Sant Benet needles: l'Elefant, la Momia, la Prenyada. We find a belay on the ground for the second ascent.

Back

The exit abseil is on the other side, south-west face, a little way down the rock. A good 20m of abseiling to land between the Magdalena inferior and superior. Take the path heading due south and you'll soon be back on the Escala de Jacob path. Return in the opposite direction to the monastery without difficulty.