TOPO Climbing

Doc A.Rañe a la Magdalena Superior, Montserrat, Spain

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Dans la 3ème longueur

Montserrat, las Gorras, but this time on the south face, exactly opposite 98 Octanos on the north face. This route, a tribute to Dr. Antòn Rañé, is relatively easy and has the double advantage of being extremely well equipped (which is rare in Montserrat at levels IV and V) and of being located in the heart of the massif with exceptional panoramic views. It's a great route, ideal for beginners or for a quiet south-facing route, without forcing yourself too much. The central pitch, the most interesting, is sustained in the V with a step or 2 in V+ at the end. The rock is excellent, with potato fields to grab hold of and plenty of equipment, which means you can pull on the nails if you're a little tired or a little lazy (A0). To the right is another route, via Acromion, of similar difficulty.

Technical summary

Access to the place

From Barcelona, take the A2 towards Leida and exit after Le Bruc at junction 572. Immediately afterwards, turn right at the abandoned petrol station towards Montserrat and Manresa. At the Can Maçana pass, turn right and follow the cliffs to the monastery. Park just before entering the site (5 euros!), or at the last bend on the right.

Map & topo

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 1h

Pass through the monastery to find the start of the GR4 at the end. Climb Escales dels pobres, cross El pas dels francesos to reach the crossroads at plaça de Santa Ana. Leave the GR4 to the right, go straight on and a little further on fork left to take the PR C-19. Follow this path downhill, then up the other side to arrive below Les Gorras. At the first crossroads, turn left, then right again to wind up the cami nou de Sant Jeroni at the Gorra Marinera. Go right, round the Marinera and then pass under the Magdalena superior (north side) to reach the foot of the Frigia. From here, climb left to the small pass between the Frigia and the Magdalena Superior. The path is equipped with a few chains, and at the pass you'll find the start of the Frigia ferrata on your right. Descend to the other side, and at the bottom you'll find the foot of the Magdalena Superior without difficulty, with a sloping start ramp and the very recognizable top of the needle.

Course

The route, opened in 2008, is south-facing and is 120 in 4 pitches (40m, 30m, 25m, 25m). The equipment is very good, which is rare for this level in Montserrat. You'll need about fifteen quickdraws.


L1 (40m, III)

Very easy start in II then III. We climb up the sloping rocky ramp. There are a rare 5 parabolts for belaying (bravo!). Halfway up, there's room for an intermediate belay, but it's better to keep going. The R1 belay has 4 belay points, at the level of a small crack that forms a comfortable ledge.


L2 (30m, V)

Slightly more difficult length with an original route. Head for the crack on the right, to find a small passage on the right and pass over a sort of roof formed by the rock (collapse). This is a V-shaped route, and you then have to cross a little above the void to finish higher up, this time under a 2d natural bulge (L3). The R2 belay is very well equipped (4 points!).


L3 (25m, V/V+ or A0)

This is the length of the route. Climb up then squeeze through the crack on the right to climb up and over the big bulge. It's a bit like L2 but more difficult, especially the exit and the end of the pitch with at least one V+ step. However, the rock is excellent, there are plenty of potatoes to grab and it's done without too much trouble. Otherwise, pull on the quickdraws as the nails are very close. The R3 belay is also very well equipped.


L4 (25m, IV)

Quick and easy, start a little to the left of the belay and climb straight up to the summit where the R4 belay is located on the ground, a little before the summit.

Back

Rappelling the east face. The 1st about 15m to a platform. A 2d of 25m to the ground. Join "Les Escales de Jacob", a narrow staircase between the Marinera and the Magdalena inferior, and find the Cami Nou de Sant Jeroni at the bottom. Follow the path in the opposite direction back to the monastery and parking lot.

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