Montserrat south face. Can Jorba sector a little to the left of Vinya Nova. Drac Gos is an exceptional route. Excellent rock, a magnificent 6a+ pitch and incredible surroundings. Lost at the bottom of the canal del Joc de l'Oca, the route gradually emerges from the gorge to finish above the aiguille de Can Jorba and dominate the Catalan plain. The level is high, particularly on the 1st and 2nd pitches, with excellent equipment on the most difficult parts, as the start and easier end are a little exposed. But this little jewel comes at a price: the almost complete ascent of the joc de l'Oca (45′) and a fairly long return if you don't want to lose your arms in the descent of the canal. It's still a very good plan, and certainly one of the most beautiful routes in Montserrat.
Fin de la 2ème longueur
Technical summary
Access to the place
From Barcelona. Take the A2 towards Leida and exit at Bruc. Just after exiting, turn around to enter the Bruc residencial and drive through olive groves to the Can Jorba farmhouse, a little above, or to the left of, the Vinya Nova restaurant. Park in the small parking lot under the trees opposite the farmhouse.
Itinerary description
Hiking to the start 45'
It's quite invigorating! Take the path that runs due north to the left of an abandoned chapel, and above the farmhouse, follow the path that climbs up to the canal del Joc de l'Oca. Follow the Canal del Joc de l'O ca almost to the end. The start is just before a passage through a small cave with a rope suspended in the air. There is an old rusty buril 2.50 m above ground on the ridge that rises to the left.
Course
Opened in 1993, this east-facing route is perfect for summer afternoons. 100m to climb in 4 pitches (35m, 25m, 15m, 35m) in an incredible setting. The equipment is excellent, but you'll need a dozen quickdraws. The most difficult pitch is 6a+, homogeneous and sustained.
L1 (35m, V+)
Climb straight up to find the parabolic line after the buril. It's a fine pitch with few grabs. The pitch veers slightly to the left to finish at belay R1, which is fairly comfortable, in line with the rock (6 quickdraws).
L2 (25m, 6a+)
Very well equipped, this pitch is splendid. Sustained, continuous climbing without a single really difficult step. Very vertical, slightly overhanging at the end, passing over a plate (which holds?) before finding, with a little more juice, the R2 belay in a characteristic hollow (9 quickdraws).
L3 (15m, V+)
The exit from the belay is aerial, but some very good holds help us get over the small overhang (2 V+ steps). The rest is easier, but the nails are getting further and further away! (4 quickdraws).
L4 (35m, V+)
It's just the start that's V+, because after that the rock is on an incline. On the other hand, the belay points become symbolic and it's better not to fall... Relay R4 almost at the top is very comfortable (4 quickdraws).
Back
Head back north overall to descend to the end of the Joc de l'Oca channel. You can either abseil down a 10m tree (which seems to be unclimbable?) or go around it, descending southwards to the top of the Can Jorba needle and then back down again. You then find yourself on a sort of ridge overlooking the canal. At the end there's a narrow channel that joins the bed of the Migdia torrent, and the end of the canal del Joc de l'Oca (15′ approx.). Once out of the canal de l'Oca, don't miss the fork in the road on the right, under the trees (no signs), which leads up into the gorge next to it, and then down again in 30′ on the Collbató trail to Can Jorba and back to the parking lot (it's better with the Alpina map!).
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