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Dream On, Ras Al Khaimah, Emirates

Publié le 9 November 2012

Wadi Galilah, north of Ras Al Kaimah. Almost at the bottom of the gorge, a track to the right leads up Wadi Litibah to the characteristic cirque of the Shady Circus (see UAE Rock Climbing topo, page 30). Having set out to do the Dream On (trad route, 150m, VS, 4c), we head off to the right into a wide fissure that joins an imposing dihedral in the final section. Finally, we fork ahead to finish probably at the end of Dream On on the ledge. Nice view over the valley.

Technical summary

Access to the place

From RAK, continue on the E18 up towards the Omani border. After Rams, pass a huge cement factory and turn right into Wadi Ghalilah. After passing a few small hamlets, turn right towards the dam painted in UAE colors. Behind it, take the stony Wadi Litibah track and park opposite the Shady Circus.

Map & topo

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start

Cross the wadi bed to reach the base of the cliffs at the top right of the cirque.

Course

The route is about 150m long in 3 pitches (50m, 50m, 50m). No equipment in place, but bring a full set of friends and stoppers.

L1 (50m, 4b)

No difficulty apart from the slightly crumbly rock on this first pitch. Belay on a wide ledge. Lots of rocks threatening to fall as the rope passes.

L2 (50m, 4c)

Starts in a fine crack, then turns left to finish in a nook ideal for climbing the belay. Excellent rock.

L3 (50m, 4c)

Aerial exit from the belay, then a series of small walls and a flat area in the hollow of a large chimney. A few finer steps. Relay 3 at the end of the rope on the exit ledge. Finish climbing without too much difficulty to reach the ridge.

Back

The way out is very impressive, following the left-hand bend, sometimes no more than a metre wide... and almost at night. Fortunately, Aiden is our guide. Descent through a ravine much further on, this time at night. Return to the starting parking lot via the wadi bed.