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Stardust, Ras Al Khaimah, Emirates

Climbing

emirates

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Stardust is a sport climbing area north of Ras Al Khaimah, just before Wadi Ghalilah. Recently equipped, it is still in the process of being equipped, with many new routes opening up from week to week. Access is quick, at the start of a fairly short wadi, and consequently the spot is well frequented. There are currently around 15 routes, from V to 7a+, on several north-facing walls that follow one another. The rock is of fairly good quality in places, but not everywhere, and is generally dusty.

Technical summary

Type ✦ Rind climbing

Location ✦ Wadi Galilah

Region ✦ Ras Al Khaimah

Country ✦ United Arab Emirates

Difficulty ✦ 5 to 7a+

Max route ✦ 30m (?)

Orientation ✦ North

Rock ✦ Limestone

Interest ✦ ★

Access to the place

Pass RAK and get back on the E18, which heads north towards the border with Musandam (Oman). Pass Rams then, just before reaching the large cement works and the fork in the wadi Ghalilah, turn right after Rahbah towards a small village to pick up a stony track that plunges into the wadi. After 10′ max, we pass a sheepfold with many goats. Stardust and the first tracks are on the right.

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start

Immediate, since cars can be parked at the foot of the tracks.

Course Les voies

North-facing overall, they are all equipped with sports equipment and can be rappelled. Quality equipment. The routes below, tested during our visits, are described in the direction of arrival in the wadi, as in the topo, published by Loudmil (this may not be the latest version).


Because we are young (18m, 6a+, 11 quickdraws)

1st section in the V to access the final wall of mini holds to negotiate.


It has 2 holes (20m, 6c+, 10 quickdraws)

Start with a jump to suspend yourself and exit on 1 physical step. The rest of the route is very fine and slightly overhanging. A 1st hole then a very fine passage to reach another pretty hole. The finish is beautiful, invigorating and quite exhausting.


A Happy Land (20m, V, 11 quickdraws)

Introductory or warm-up route of no great difficulty.


Dancing Dust (30m, V, 13 quickdraws)

Nice length, with an interesting traverse above the hole.


Con Le Mie Lacrime (25m, V, 9 quickdraws)

Not homogeneous, the most difficult pitch at the top before the belay.


Rising Potential (30m, V, 12 quickdraws)

Very dusty. Less interesting than Dancing Dust.


It All Comes Down (25m, 6a, 11 quickdraws)

The rock is still a bit rotten, it sounds hollow... Nice slab otherwise, worth more V+.


The Man Who Sold The Bolts (25m, V+, 11 quickdraws)

Nice pitch, advertised as 6c but this must be a mistake. Vertical start and small roof at the top, easy enough to negotiate in the end.

Map & topo

Click on the Stardust topo image to view. Precise GPS directions to the site are given.

Photos

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