Tawyian Crag, Ras Al Khaimah, Emirates

Climbing

Publié le 14 November 2014 |

On the road from RAK to Dibba, the small village of Tawiyan. Beyond the village, as you go up the wadi on the new road, at the entrance to a small gorge, there's a small sport climbing area. Access is quick, the area is shaded for most of the day and the routes are generally well equipped. With the exception of a few routes in the V, the level is fairly difficult, with a series of routes in the 6 and 7 on the overhanging section. Continuing further north, we can approach the Omani border and, this time with a good approach walk, reach the Colosseum sector, which we have equipped on the wall of a large dry waterfall.

Technical summary

Access to the place

On the E87, which crosses the UAE to Dibaba on the east coast, turn left towards the small village of Tawyian. Cross it to the north and take the road into the main wadi. After a few bends, you can soon make out a narrowing of the wadi below. Park on the right-hand curve.

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 10'

Cross the road and descend along a fairly well-marked footpath. You reach the bed of the wadi, which you just have to climb a little further to find the 1st tracks on the right-hand side.

Course Les voies

They are all marked out on the right-hand wall. A dozen or so routes are equipped with bolts and belays. The cliff faces north-west and remains in the shade all day long. The routes are generally difficult (6c, 7a), with slightly overhanging centers and good-quality rock, but with patina in places. You'll need around fifteen quickdraws for the longest routes. New routes have been opened and do not appear on Toby's topo(download the pdf update here). Routes climbed or attempted from right to left.

Mas Sangrienta (10m, 6b)

The 1st on the right. Nice off-balance, overhanging step. Fine and not so obvious.

Bloody as Hell (12m, 7a)

Shorter but a very fine and difficult step after the 2nd nail. Exits into a sort of overhanging gully.

Laundry Service (8m, V)

Slightly slippery rock, ultra-tonic start, guaranteed warm-up. A bit violent for a start.

Office Clerk (16m, 7a)

Big step at the start, then some overhang, and another big step at 5m. The rest I just saw, but difficult and overhanging all the way.

Stone Pussy (25m, 6c)

Very nice route, aerial, accessible and technical. Delicate crux halfway up.

Caracal Branch (22m, 7a+)

Starts in the dihedral to the left of Stone Pussy. An overhanging reta and a difficult exit. Not so technical, but pulls on the arms. A bit hard for me still 😉 !

Fujairah Spaceport (L1, 20m, V)

To warm up, the 1st pitch of the 7a+ route. Well equipped, easy, sloping slab.

UAQ Overshoot (L1, 20m, V)

To warm up, the 1st pitch only (L2 in 6b?) but ultimately of little interest except for the small starting wall.