This somewhat remote sector, mentioned in the UAE Climbing Guide, lies above Tawyian Crag, to the north, approaching the border with Oman. A beautiful approach walk in the bed of a wadi leads to a pretty cul de sac where there's a large dry waterfall (80m) and a wall in the shape of a small cirque. During September 2013, we repeatedly went there to equip and now 5 routes are available, fully equipped, overall very difficult. The rock is good but offers few holds, and the wall is vertical and smooth in places. There are still opportunities to equip more routes, in the cascade but also on the right-hand side. There's another name for the area, Colle-Au-Rectum, hence the name of the routes.
Technical summary
Access to the place
From Tawyian, take the road that runs behind and info,ce into the main wadi. Pass the Tawyian Crag spot and continue. The road climbs and then drops steeply to reach a valley behind. At the bottom, you come to a T-junction with a stop sign. Turn right and go straight on, passing a small village. You pass a kind of watchtower, then continue along the bed of the wadi, where the track is bumpier but very accessible. At the end, there are 2 or 3 shacks where you can park, but you can't go any further. Allow around 15′ from the 1st climbing spot. 4×4 mandatory.
Itinerary description
Hiking to the start 35'
Continue past the parking lot into the wadi bed. Pass several times on the right to avoid the boulders. The wadi takes a wide, open bend to the right. After about 20′, the bed begins to bend to the left, where it forks onto another small wadi to the right (cairn). Climb it, alternating between the central path and the rocky flank. The path twists and turns to finally reach the end, facing the waterfall (cul de sac).
Course Les voies
The waterfall faces west and gets the sun at the end of the day, except in winter. Allow for 15 quickdraws and a minimum of 60m. From left to right:
Mou Ton Kebab (25m, 6c, 11 quickdraws)
1st third in the wide crack not too hard, 2d third the most difficult with 2 nice traverses to negotiate and some very very fine pitches, 3rd third easier to finish. Very nice route, sustained on the middle 10m, slippery rock in places. A climb based on placement and balance, all in feet and fingers too...
Du Mou, Tabal! (27m, 7a, 14 quickdraws)
The 1st half, all finesse, mini ruler, climbs to the right of the nails. Then cross over to an inverted rock to access 2 or 3 artificial pitches (perhaps doable as a free climb, but much harder still?). Demanding 2nd part, with some very difficult moves.
Felix The Cat or Louis s'casse (12m, IV+/V, 7 quickdraws)
Inclined plane, grip climbing, round holds. Warm-up or initiation route. The only one we didn't equip.
Chie Ken Shawarma (15m, 6b ?, 7 quickdraws)
Departure to the left of a bulging boulder in a characteristic staircase. The route goes straight on, then slightly left. The middle is fine, technical, with mini finger holds and a recovery on a small ledge that doesn't seem at all obvious. A route that remains to be tested, fresh and available.
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