TOPO Climbing

Diedre Farreny a la Roca Alta, Vilanova de Meïa

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Diedre Farreny
Above Vilanova de Meïa, at the western end of the Roca Alta, you'll inevitably spot the magnificent dihedral that winds its way up the imposing orange-colored rock face. The Diedre Farreny is one of the first to be opened in the area. It's a lightly equipped route on a very vertical wall, requiring aerial climbing and sustained commitment. However, the protections are easy enough to install, in addition to the pitons that can be found along the route. The 3rd and 4th pitches are truly impressive, with an omnipresent vertical atmosphere and a breathtaking panorama of the surrounding plain. The ratings given on the topos should be revised upwards a little. Pitches 3 and 4, rated V, are well worth V+ for their commitment, verticality and continuity. This is a major route, almost unmissable, close to Pornostar, another not-to-be-missed route in the area.

Technical summary

Type ✦ Semi-equipped long route

Location ✦ Roca Alta, Vilanova de Meïa

Region ✦ Catalunya

Country ✦ Spain

Orientation ✦ South

Lengths ✦ 6

Vertical drop ✦ 165m

Difficulty max ✦ V+

Rock ✦ Limestone

Interest ✦ ★★★

Access to the place

From the village of Vilanova de Meïa, take the road that climbs north towards Tremp and after about 3 km, turn left onto a track towards Rubiès and the hermitage. It climbs up with wide switchbacks to reach a plateau below the Roca Alta. Continue past a shack, then a stone house, before skirting a field (left). Here, fork a track in poorer condition to climb up and end up on a small esplanade under the dihedral (area with beehives). Approx. 5 km of track.

Map & topo

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 30'

Take the track up towards La Roca and at the 1st bend continue straight ahead on a small path (cairn). Then climb back up, following the various paths that intertwine a little to reach the foot of the dihedral (obvious).

Course

Le Diedre Farreny, opened in 1978, is south-facing and 165m long in 6 pitches (30m, 20m, 40m, 30m, 20m, 25m). With a few pitons and bolts in place, the route is semi-equipped and can be classified as adventure terrain. Committed lengths, fairly easy protection. Provide a full set of friends, possibly doubling from 0.5 to 2, a set of jammers and lanyards for the bushes.


Length 1 (30m, IV)

Start under a shrub at 10m, the rock is not good and after placing a lanyard on the shrub, continue slightly to the left to join a small ledge under a rocky lip. No equipment on this 1st pitch, but the belay is bolted.


Length 2 (20m, V+)

Exit to the right with an expo step in V+ to cross the lip, then continue straight on towards the tree at the foot of the dihedral. An unequipped belay that can be used with a recoverable plate, otherwise no equipment in place, but easily protected (except for the start). Vertical finish and R2 belay on the tree.


Length 3 (40m, V+)

A superb pitch, aesthetically pleasing and very aerial, with good support and commitment. Climb the dihedral, pass a sort of small roof on the right, then continue on the slab on the right to finish easier up to the R3 belay, which can be climbed with a piton and a lunula on a stuck boulder. A few pitons in place, protection easy to find.


Length 4 (30m, V+)

Another impressive pitch, very aerial and sustained. Cross 3m to the right without protection, then climb to find a 1st piton. Continue in a crack, clipping a bolt before passing a small, very vertical chimney to finish using the slab on the right to the R4 belay, which you climb on a tree. A few pitons here too and a bolt (after the 1st piton) in place.


Length 5 (20m, V)

Continue on a wide crack in easier terrain that's a little less vertical, but not easy to protect. We pass a 1st trunk across, then higher up there are 2 bolts (belays?) before reaching a large trunk where we can climb the R5 belay (or continue a few meters to find a bolted belay on the right).


Length 6 (25m, IV)

Climb above the trunk and reach a small exit channel to walk to the summit. End of the Diedre Farreny.

Back

Climb north to reach the plateau, then head west to reach the sports areas and a path leading down into a gully (a natural passage visible when crossing the plateau). From here, follow the fairly well-marked path down to the foot of the walls, then back down to the parking lot, improvising on the small, steep paths used on the approach.

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