Access to the place
Hiking to the start 20'
From the bend, climb to the left and cross over the road to reach and skirt the base of the tower, then go around it to the west to reach the start of the route (1 wedge and a cairn at the start).
North-west facing, so partly in the afternoon sun. 200m in 5 pitches (20m, 30m, 50m, 50m, 50m). No equipment in place and a route generally in the V+ range (rated TD). Bring a set of friends and jammers.
L1 (20m, V)
Start off to the left of the belay, with a step. Make a left turn and climb the belay at the next turn.
L2 (30m, V+)
Unpleasant and uncomfortable length. Zigzag between boulders, with a huddled traverse. Exit almost under the main dihedral to climb relay R2 comfortably.
L3 (50m, V)
Diagonal start to reach the black-brown dihedral. The rock is much better. Continue on a fairly airy climb to belay R3 under a more vertical crack that forms an almost chimney.
L4 (50m, V+)
The most beautiful pitch. Fine start. Good holds on the right in the slab to avoid getting too far into the crack. Ditto higher up, passing to the right with a custom pocket hold. Easier end by turning left under the white section.
L5 (50m, V)
Easier finish. Go left on a series of slabs and ledges (IV) then climb a fairly airy final chimney to finally climb the R5 belay below the summit.
Climb to the top, then descend to the south (cairns). Then return to the starting point either to the right or to the left, skirting the tower.