TOPO Climbing

Glucose & Maamoul Power, wadi Tiwi, Oman

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Dans L4 à protéger

Discovery of a new sector on Tiwi: the Pilier de Soée. 2 recent and not too long routes to enjoy the extraordinary atmosphere of the wadi. The Glucose Power, a trad route with a few points on the difficult sections, and next to it the Maamoul Power, more equipped, which runs alongside it and joins it at the start of the L5. The rock on Glucose isn't great at the end of L3, and it's especially rotten in L4, where we scare ourselves, which is a shame. To finish, we climbed L5 of Maamoul Power, well equipped on a homogeneous 6b without too much difficulty either. 2 stars all the same, especially for the Tiwi atmosphere, which alone is worth the detour!

Technical summary

Access to the place

From the freeway that runs from Muscat to Sur via Quriyat (route 17). Exit at the village of Tiwi and, before entering the village, head for the W35 trek (clearly passing under the 4-lane bridge). The road soon becomes a track. It's about 10km to the last village of Mibam. The road climbs steeply in places, and some passages are very narrow, but overall it's not difficult (4×4 strongly recommended). A little before the village, as you descend to the left, you'll find a small terrace where you can bivouac.

Map & topo

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 1h

Not easy, even with the cliff in sight. Descend to the bottom of the wadi via a gully just after the hamlet (not sure this is the best plan). Cross the wadi and climb up the opposite side to the start in the rocky gully and then up the right-hand side. Improvise a path to reach the foot of the cliff on sight. The starting point is an obvious and characteristic dihedral (see topo photo).

Course

The route, north-facing and equipped in 2012, is 5 pitches and around 230m long (50m, 40m, 25m, 50m, 50m) if you don't count the II/III final. Include trad gear (set of jammers and friends).


L1 (50m, V+)

Thread the dihedrals to the top of a 1st pillar. Good rock, even if it moves here and there. Sustained, aerial length. Relay 1 on a small ledge to be climbed with an old piton.


L2 (40m, IV+)

Climb straight up to a rock spout to pass over it on the left, then an easy ramp. Belay 2: take the maamoul Power belay, a little to the left below the wall (bolts can be seen).


L3 (25m, 6a)

V+ slab then a 6a pitch to turn and recover above a small roof. Then traverse to the right, medium rock and finish in a small niche. Relay 3 with a piton.


L4 (50m, V+)

Start off to the right to reach a ramp of rotten rock, which is very difficult to protect for the first 10 metres. It's hard to enjoy the rest of the climb in the wobbly dihedral, where you can get scared. Finish by turning left for belay 4.


L5 de Maamoul Power (50m, 6b)

Climb left, cross Maamoul's belay and then head straight up. 1 small wall with sharp holes, then the rest is beautiful, a slab to be climbed with finesse. The end, on the way back in, is not so good.

Back

Recall in Maamoul Power: L5, L4 then L3 and L2 linked (60m) and finally L1 in the dihedral at an angle. The reverse return from the approach is no easier. We had to make a detour via the falaj to find our way!

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