On our way back from Tiwi, we stop off at one of Oman's biggest sport climbing spots. Wadi Dayqah runs almost on a south-north axis below Quriyat, which means that the cliffs face east/west, so there's a lot of sun during the day. Despite this, if you choose your season well, the routes are very well equipped and the rock very good, at least for what we tried, on the Middle Canyon Main Area, North Face. Full details of the area can be found in Ross Weiter's comprehensive topo guide, 4th edition, 2007, possibly supplemented by Jacob Oberhauser's latest Oman climbing topo (2014).
Départ de Hookey
Technical summary
Access to the place
On the road from Muscat to Sur, at Quriyat, turn towards Hail El Ghaf. Go through the village and exit onto the track behind, which leads to a small dam facing the wadi. For the main sector, turn right and descend for a while on a very chaotic stony track. After 10 to 15′ of track, keep an eye on the right and left to spot the shape of the cliffs and bolts (better with the topo photo).
Itinerary description
Hiking to the start 0'
Immediate, since you park at the foot of the tracks!
Course Les voies
Protected from the sun until early afternoon, we opted for the north-west side, which seems to be the most interesting. The equipment in place is very good and the belays equipped to call back. The rock is also excellent. Most of the existing routes are described in the 2007 topo.
Where is Lafaille (30m, V+)
Nice even length, excellent rock and very well equipped. For gentle warming-up.
Patouche (35m, V+)
Rated 6a on the topo, but although the route is pleasant, it's not difficult. Starts in a corner and makes an interesting move to the left (6a pitch?).
Hookey (20m, 6a+)
This is definitely 6a+! A vertical, athletic and sustained start with some nice pockets. The 2nd part is less hard.
Annie Zet (20m, 6a)
Another beautiful pitch. The hole wall is a small 6a with some nice holds.
Al Kirobi (25m, 6a)
Fairly easy slab up to the aerial exit in a mini dihedral, not obvious but with nice holes.
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