TOPO Climbing

Roadside sport climbing, Ras Al Khaimah

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Ras Al Khaimah, at the entrance to the wadi Qada'a, the Roadside sector. In the midst of all the open late routes detailed in the UAE topo guide, new routes recently equipped for sport climbing by Brian C. Easy and quick access, routes accessible 2 minutes from the piste (hence the name of the sector!), a great option for rinding in the shade, training in adventure terrain and therefore also for sport climbing. We were able to try out a few of the well-equipped routes on the north-west side, and another on the east side, right next to the classic "Peckers Poke", a very fine slab that's really interesting.

Technical summary

Access to the place

From RAK, take the classic wadi Shah route. Before turning off to join the wadi, take the track on the right and enter wadi Qada'a, pass the Sentinel Rock area, continue for another 1km or so to park on the side, at the cliffs, which are easy to spot from the track.

Map & topo

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 2'

The lower sectors are immediately visible. The side visible on the right as you arrive is the north-western side. If you go further around, you'll reach the east side.

Course Les voies

They are described here from right to left, with the eastern route last. The equipment is impeccable, and the belays are chained with safety karabiners. The routes are between 15 and 20m long. For all other trad routes, see the UAE guide, pages 45 to 48. Names and ratings are pending Brian's topo.


LOWER TIER NORTH WEST RIGHT


Slab Climb (20m, IV)

Easy-to-climb slab with protection on the right. Relay equipped (2 Bolts). Good for top-roping the following climbs from the top.


Bonzo (20m, V+)

A wide ridge with good holds. More aerial.


BOTTOM RIGHT


Voie 1 (25m, V+/6a ?, 10 quickdraws)

To the right of Camel Crack. A nice warm-up slab with a not-so-obvious central section, good vertical and a small step out of a bulge. The end is easier.


Route 2 (15m, 6a+ ?, 8 quickdraws)

Between Carpet Bagger and Dive Bomber. A very different route, with a slight overhang and some very nice cavities. A good athletic step in the middle and an aerial finish.


Route 3 (25m, 6a ?, 10 quickdraws)

In the recess to the left of Chokstone Crack, on the inner right face of the large dihedral. The beginning is quite difficult and the rest, along the ridge, is easier.


Route 4 (20m, 6c ?, 10 quickdraws)

On the other side of the dihedral. A huge step between 3rd and 4th nails, very fine and slightly overhanging. Then it's much simpler (V).


Route 5 "She be Eyein' It" (15m, 6c ?)

Perhaps the most beautiful, on the east side, just to the left of Peckers Poke. A magnificent slab to climb, very, very thin, with a big step of balance and placement halfway up. The end is more accessible.

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