Access to the place
Hiking to the start 5'
For the Pond Wall sector, continue straight ahead on your scooter to the bottom, where a path leads to the fields facing the cliff. Leave the scooter there, in front of the pond. Use the raft and bamboo to cross the mini pond and disembark at the foot of the local tracks.
For Upper Mantle, take the narrow path that starts just behind the parking lot. Follow the slope to reach the foot of the tracks on the left-hand side of the sector.
Course Les voies
They are very well equipped, and also on the easy ones, which is quite rare. Good-quality rock, but beware of vegetation and beasts that have made their nests in the beautiful holes. The topos were taken from thecrag.com.
Rome to hanoi express (18m, 6a)
Nice cracks, impeccable rock, no diffculty apart from a more athletic finish. Great for warming up.
Argentina's Delight (27m, 6a+)
The start is common to the 3 central routes. A small dihedral to negotiate to reach the foot of a sort of inverted triangle. Follow the easy dihedral to the left before finishing vertically. The last movements are the hardest, quite physical but not too difficult either. The final climb is on a ledge, and the belay is also common, a little to the right.
Mother Butterfly (27m, 6a)
Perhaps the most beautiful. Identical start to the previous one, then at the foot of the triangle, cross to the right, aerial passage. The rest is pleasant, with fine but straightforward horizontal cracks. Finish by turning left to reach the shared belay.
Flight of the bumble bee (27m, 7c+)
Here too, a shared start, then straight on. A very tricky first move (6c?) and from there it gets more complicated. One or 2 doable steps aboveuss before arriving at the last movement, which seems totally unfeasible!
Chuyen Nui (18m, V)
Start at the foot of a magnificent banana tree. Only one difficulty: the traverse step at 5/6m, quite thin. The rest of the route is on slabs with no major difficulties. Relay under a roof.
5 Fun (25m, IV+)
Same start but crosses to the right with a slightly airy step. The 2nd part is very easy, from III to the relay.
Vu Duyen (10m, V+)
Central route, very short but interesting. Climbs in increments with a tendency to pour to the right. The last movements are the trickiest, a little technical. Good warm-up route. A 6b next to it to try out next time.
Grass is always greener (22m, 6a+)
Nice route, very invigorating and sustained, especially the 1st half. A more difficult step at 4/5m, then the 2nd part in a fine traverse. We finish with our arms pumping!
Dublin Mudslide (25m, 6a)
Starts just around the corner, to the left of the previous route. Watch out for hornets' nests (?) in the holes... Less sustained, through awkward vegetation. The 2nd part is more interesting. Relay a little above Grass. There's a forked option on the left, but it's now almost overgrown.
Galerie de photos (19 octobre 2013)