TOPO Climbing | CLIMBING7.COM

Basalm del Tigre a la paret Bucolica, Oliana

Publié le 8 July 2015 | Catalunya Eng, Spain

The Basalm del Tigre is a Bucolica classic. Between Coll de Nargo and Organya, a little above Oliana, a tunnel leads to the fantastic rocky bar of the Cinglera dels Espluvins, which continues into the Bucolica paret. The Basalm del Tigre is just to the left of the no less classic Terra de Dinosaures. The setting is splendid, with a permanent view of the green waters of the Pantano and, opposite, the wilds of Alt Urgell. Well equipped, with a few more athletic steps - 2 small roofs to overcome - the route is generally in the V+/6a range on excellent rock. Great atmosphere!

Technical summary

Type ✦ Equipped long route

Location ✦ Paret Bucolica, Coll de Nargo

Region ✦ Alt Urgell, Catalunya

Country ✦ Spain

Orientation ✦ South-East

Lengths ✦ 6

Vertical drop ✦ 190m

Difficulty max ✦ 6a+

Rock ✦ Limestone

Interest ✦ ★★

Access to the place

From Oliana, heading north towards Coll de Nargo on the C14, go through the 3rd tunnel and take the service road on the right. Drive about 300m and park in a small space on the right. You're now under the Paret Bucòlica, at about track level. This secondary road was closed on July 8, 2015, so park on the road that bypasses the previous tunnel (the so-called "Obeja Negra" tunnel).

Map & topo

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 30′

Go back about 100m to climb 10′ up a path in a gorge (cairns and red marks). Cut right onto an ill-defined path that leads within sight of the foot of the track. The start is just to the left of the Terra de Dinosaures route, next to a characteristic pine tree. Basalm is engraved on the rock to indicate the start.

Course

The Basalm del Tigre route faces south-east. The route is 190m in 6 pitches (40m, 30m, 40m, 20m, 20m, 40m). Fully equipped, particularly on the hardest pitches, the required level is 6a. The orientation makes it possible to climb in the morning in winter and at the end of the day in summer.

Length 1 (40m, V+/6a)

The 1st nail is a bit far away. There's a fine 1st bulge to negotiate, then a slight flat before the vertical, committed mid-length passage (V+/6a). The comfortable R1 belay is located just below a large lip.

Length 2 (30m, 6a+)

The lip to be passed is made by recovering with a large hold above the nail, but very difficult to reach (pull on the nail!). The rest of the route is aerial with some nice holds, but physical. The end of the pitch is in an aerial V+ on superb horizontal cracks to be exploited.

Length 3 (40m, V+)

A start to the left of the first nail, again very high, then a V+ step before a very pretty aerial V/V+ slab. The final part of the pitch goes right onto a flat.

Length 4 (20m, V/V+)

An athletic start, but the rest of the route is more accessible, with some nice crunches and cracks to be climbed in opposition.

Length 5 (20m, 6a+)

The relay exit is fine. Then climb up to the lip, which is crossed with 1 athletic step on medium-quality holds.

Length 6 (40m, IV)

Just the right length to reach the summit. Relay to a large tree on the ridge.

Back

Climb the ridge and follow the path south. The path passes behind the ridge and then a pass to pour over to the other side. Follow the edge of the cliff through a sort of cirque and then descend steeply to the road (scree and tricky descent).