Despite the threatening weather, we set off on another Paret Bucòlica classic, in the Cinglera dels Espluvins, between Oliana and Coll de Nargò. The wall rises above one of the tunnels that cross the mountain, with a view of the end of the pantanò d'Oliana and the riu Segre. More to the left than the Basalm del Tigre and Terra de Dinosaures routes, this large, fully-equipped route with its original name is a little more challenging, with several short passages in the 6b/6b+ range (passable in A0) and some solid pitches in the 6a range. Unfortunately, after 2 pitches, the rain came and soaked the whole wall in a few minutes, forcing us to turn back under the start of L3. We'll be keeping an eye on this one, as it's an opportunity if ever there was one, to come back to the area.
Fin du match, au pied de la L3
Technical summary
Access to the place
From Oliana up towards Coll de Nargò on the C14, go through the 3rd tunnel and take the service road on the right. Drive about 300m and park in a small space on the right. You're now under the Paret Bucòlica, almost at track level.
Itinerary description
Hiking to the start 20'
Go back about 100m and climb 10′ up a path in a gorge (cairns and red marks). Continue along this steep path and when you reach the base of the rock (look for the double roof), cut right to reach the foot of the route, to the right of a crack, the line of the first markers clearly visible.
Course
The south-facing route is 195m long in 6 pitches (25m, 40m, 25m, 40m, 35m, 30m). On L1, L2 and the start of L3, it's well equipped, especially on the most difficult pitches (at least on the start of L3), the obligatory level is 6a, if only for L2. Allow for around fifteen quickdraws.
L1 (25m, V)
It starts gently, on an easy ramp to a small step to the left. Finish diagonally to the left and climb the R1 belay 3m above the tree.
L2 (40m, 6a)
Sustained length. Start on the right with some nice moves to link up (V+), then attack a slab with a crack to exploit at the start, then small horizontal holds to put 3 fingers in (I found it hard...). More inclined exit with big tubs up to R2 belay, under the bulge at the start of L3.
L3 and beyond
The exit pitch at L3 seems difficult (6b?) but very well equipped and therefore a priori passable in A0, the continuation easier to reach the right side of the roofs. Difficult to say more. The rain came down, forcing us to turn back.
Back
Normally, we'd walk up to the top, but given the conditions, we had to abseil directly to the ground. Once we reached the parking lot, the weather cleared and a beautiful blue sky lit up the wall... all wet!
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