TOPO Via ferrata
Location ✦ Madonna di Campiglio
Region ✦ Trentino-Alto Adige, Dolomites
Country ✦ Italy
Vertical rise ✦ 530m
Negative altitude difference ✦ 1430m
Difficulty ✦ K2
Duration ✦ 4h to 5h
Interest ✦ ★★
Access to the place
Map & topo
Hiking to the start 15'
Take the gondola up to the passo del Grosté at 2446m (currently 12.50 euros one way).
The ferrata consists mainly of a series of natural or carved (?) aerial ledges with no difficulties other than the emptiness. Only the final section, to reach the Bocca di Tuckett, resembles a more classic ferrata with rungs and ladders on a vertical wall. The equipment in place is excellent, placed only on exposed passages or those requiring assistance to climb or unclimb. The few passages over névé are easy and do not require crampons, unless conditions are exceptional. The route is very well marked and obviously very busy, but that's not a problem: you can easily pass or overtake other roped parties.
Part 1: join the ledges to the equipped trailhead (45')
We immediately find the trail and the signs indicating the ferrata. It climbs on a false flat of white rock towards the 1st massif to the
Part 2: the switchbacks to the flat where the path leads directly to the refuge (1h15')
The passage is narrow, sometimes less than 1m, and really on the edge of the void. We walk holding the lifeline without difficulty. The route is on the west side, and views over the valley depend on the presence of mist, which tends to lick the walls from late morning onwards. We pass beneath the summits of cima Grosté (2898m), cima Falkner (2988m) and cima Sella (2919m).
Part 3: descent to Col de Tuckett (20')
This is the steepest part. Nice ladders, some de-escalation this time with a few rungs and the help of the lifeline. You can now see the small Bocca di Tuckett pass (2640m) and the central massif of the via delle Bocchette Alte opposite.
Section 4: from the Bocca to the Tuckett hut (45')
Descending into the valley on a delicate, slippery path or in the scree. The descent could be more complicated if it rains or if there is snow. The 2nd part is less steep, and a pretty flanking path weaves its way under the orange and black bars to reach the Tuckett refuge...crowded!
Follow the path down to the Vasinella parking lot. Well signposted, after about 40' you reach the Casinei hut at 1850m. Then another 30' through the forest to the parking lot. There are shuttle buses at 2 euros every 20′ back to Madonna di Campiglio...