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Via Eterna Brigata Cadore, Dolomites

Via ferrata

Publié le 11 August 2018 |

The recently re-equipped via Eterna Brigata Cadore climbs a huge slab and then an airy ridge on the eastern slope of the Marmolada massif in the Dolomites. Equipped with at least a single cable, except in 2 places, the route offers panoramic views of the Marmolada glacier, the Masola ridges and, in the distance, the other groups of Dolomite peaks... at least on a clear day, which is not easy here in summer. The difficulty lies mainly in the 1st section, which is vertical and continuous to reach the sea of rocks and face the slab that leads to the ridges. The rest of the climb is aerial but not very difficult. A great alternative to the normal Marmolada route on the west ridge. A route that can be exceptional on a clear day.

Technical summary

Type ✦ Via Ferrata
Location ✦ Canazeï
Region ✦ Trentino-Alto Adige, Dolomites
Country ✦ Italy
Length ✦ 1000m
Vertical rise ✦ 900m
Max. altitude: 2962m
Difficulty ✦ K4
Duration ✦ 5h to 6h
Interest ✦ ★★

Access to the place

From Bolzano, reach Canazei and then take the Passo de Fedaïa road. Drive along Lake Fedaïa and park in front of the Passo Fedaia refuge at 2057m.

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 45'

From the refuge, go behind it and take the wide track that climbs steeply in a yaw. Pass the first 3 bends and before passing under the chairlift, a path marked red and white and "F.E" indicates a shortcut to the foot of the route, in the main cliff.

Course 3h

Perfectly equipped with a lifeline and nothing else except at the start and in the final descent with rungs. The difficult part is at the start, with a long, vertical pitch where you have to use the rock to climb. The rock is not always very compact, especially on the lower part. Be careful of the rocks on the ground and what you pick up with your hands to climb. Make sure you wear gloves, as you'll be using the rope all the time.

Part 1: vertical entry (30')

This is a physical, vertical route over the west face of the cliff to the main slab. There's plenty for the feet, but a few tricky sections with smooth, wet rock in places.

Part 2: the slab (45')

We arrive at a huge slab, a veritable sea of bleached rock. A long, more inclined ascent, without difficulty but physical for the distance. We finish by passing under the ridge on the west side.

Part 3: the ridge (1h20')

The route actually passes under the ridge at the start, crossing to the left and continuing upwards. Further on, you actually reach the ridge, which is very narrow, with gas to the left and right. It goes on for a while, then there's a not-so-obvious de-escalation to reach another ridge a little lower down, which approaches the glacier.

Part 4: the finale (20')

We finish with a vertical descent on the east side equipped with a flight of rungs to end up in the old galleries and military posts of the 2nd World War. The intermediate station of the cable car is then easily reached, at the end of the route.

Back

There are several alternatives for getting back. The easiest is to take the cable car back down to Malga Ciapela on the south-east side (plan a return stop or 2nd vehicle). Alternatively, go down the glacier to join the track below the chairlift, but access to the glacier is not easy as the winter tunnel is closed and you'll need crampons and ice axe as well. That's the option we took.