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Vilmanbar a la Pastereta, Montserrat, Spain

Publié le 29 September 2011 | Catalunya Eng, Spain

The route crosses the western flanks of the Pastereta overlooking the Clot de la Monica, not far from Vinya Nova on the south face of Montserrat. It's a clear route, with generous equipment for safe climbing and excellent rock, even if the 1st pitch has a few stones with a little patina here and there. The approach is quick from the main trail and the route can be climbed in 2 hours without any problem, with an aerial view of the surrounding plain and olive groves. A great option, then, for a climb that's varied, accessible, pleasant and comfortable. Note an unscrewed plate where the bolt is missing in the middle of the 1st pitch (the point can be skipped without any problem).

Technical summary

Access to the place

From Barcelona. Exit at Collbató on the A2 towards Leida and climb up to the top of the village to catch the track leading to Vinya Nova. Just before you reach Vinya Nova, there's a sort of wider, flat parking area with a path leading off to the right towards the Clot de la Monica. Park here. You can easily see the recognizable Pastereta above.

Map & topo

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 30'

From the parking lot, follow the path upwards, which heads due north on almost level ground. Further on, follow the small path that continues in the same direction, with blue markings in the shrubbery. The Pastereta is in sight. The path climbs steeply, winding up to the needle. There's then a small fork to the right (kairn) which leads right to the foot of the wall, on the west flank of Pastereta. The route starts by climbing even further to the right, to find the characteristic crack. The start is just to the left of this crack (unmistakable line of nails).

Course

The west-facing route was opened in 2006. 4 pitches (30m, 20m, 45m, 35m) for a total vertical drop of 130m. The level of difficulty is in the V+ range, with a step or 2 in the 6a range, not too bad. Bring 12 quickdraws. The equipment is excellent and generous, except for the boltless point in the middle of L1.

L1 (30m, 6a)

Follow the points and climb slightly to the left before going straight on, staying alongside the crack. There are a few finer steps at around ten meters and then a little higher still, but nothing really difficult. The end of the pitch is easier in a V shape up to the R1 belay, which was advertised as bad but in the end not so bad (rings a little rusty but in good condition).

L2 (20, V+)

Go 3m above the belay and cross the crack to the right. One or two original steps and a tricky exit before climbing back up on easier terrain with nice holds everywhere and equipment that makes you happy!

L3 (45m, V+)

A long, easier pitch overall, despite a finer step in the first 10 meters. After that, the points become a little more distant, but it's easy with a field stuffed with big, good, clean holds. The R3 belay (shared with the next route) is made on a small platform at the top of the plate we've just climbed, and joins the central part of the Pastereta, which from a distance looks like a big bump in the shape of a pachyderm's forehead.

L4 (35m, V)

Don't head straight for the top (right-hand path), but walk a few metres to find the right-hand continuation. Pass by a shrub and finish in V to the final R4 belay, almost not quite at the summit. Quick and easy length.