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L’avi Trepador a la Codolosa, Montserrat, Spain

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To make the most of these incredible days of fine weather, on Sunday we headed south to discover another climbing area, just above Collbato on the Paret de la Codolosa. This large wall, which forms a kind of natural amphitheatre overlooking the hermitage of Salut, is just to the left of the majestic cliffs of serrat de les Garrigoses and serrat dels Monjos. The avi trepador is accessible, even if there are a few tricky V pitches, not to say V+, especially for those setting off in the lead. Nothing exceptional, but a good moment in the sun, an open, airy panorama and a site full of routes to enjoy when it starts to get a bit chilly.

dans la dalle de la 3ème longueur

Technical summary

Access to the place

From Barcelona, take the A2 towards Lleida and exit at Collbato. Do not enter the village and drive straight on towards the coves del Salnitre. Shortly afterwards, turn left to reach the Hermit of Salut parking lot a little further up. There's a parking lot and even a chiringuito. The Codolosa wall is there, just ahead and above.

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 15'

Take the Font Seca torrent path which starts behind the parking lot. The bed of the torrent is clearly visible and all you have to do is climb up it. The overall path follows the course of the torrent, climbing a few rocks across and heading towards the walls. When you reach La Codolosa, fork left to find a path you'll have to invent along the foot of the cliff (we didn't find anything very clear). The start of the avi trepador is to the left of a large column that stands out in the middle, a little decomposed (with the topo photo, it's unmissable). If you're lucky, you'll be able to see some montserratine cabras running up the wall, without the slightest difficulty. We'll be climbing with 60m of rope and all our gear.

Course

The route, opened in 2002, is south-facing and 85m long in 3 pitches (30m, 25m, 30m). Maximum level is V+. Equipment is good except on L1. Bring 10 quickdraws, sabine lanyards and small friends if necessary.


L1 (30m, IV+)

The first few meters are a little diagonal (2 nails), then cross a first level on grass to climb straight up to the level of a shrub. Continue without too much protection to a second level at the foot of a vertical plate. Relay R1 is 5/6m above. To get there, a single nail is badly placed (too close to the ground), so be careful!


L2 (25m, V/V+)

The topos speak of a V, but frankly it's worth a V+. Start off to the right, then upwards. The wall is vertical, the holds thin. You'll find some old equipment to protect the exit. Continue diagonally to the left. At the end of this first section, the rest of the climb is easier in V, then at the end in IV+. Follow the nails to reach a flat area at the foot of another vertical wall. Relay R2 is there, at the bottom.


L3 (30m, V/V+)

Same as L2. It's worth V+ on sight at the top. Fine, vertical climbing. Go right through a fault, then back over the belay to climb vertically for ten meters or so. You arrive at a small flat spot where you can place a friend petit for the rest of the climb. Last section with a few V+ steps to the right of the nails, more accessible on the left in V to finish in III and access the R3 belay on the summit.

Back

Recall the route, either in 2 stages, as stated in some topos, but in this case and with a 2x60m rope do L3 + L2 at once and L1 alone as it seems longer than 30m, or, as we did, in 3 stages without difficulty. Return to the Font Seca torrent bed via the flank to the parking lot.

Map & topo

Photos

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