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May Pó al Pas Nou, Vilanova de Meïa, Spain

Publié le 3 July 2011 | Catalunya Eng, Spain

Day 2 at Vilanova de Meïa. After a hard-hitting 1st day, which included the Necronomicon and a sporty session, we moved a little further into the gorge to reach the Tarzán del Pas Nou sector beyond the Roca dels Arcs. More incised but no less aerial, the May Pó route is certainly shorter but far from obvious, with some athletic and committed V+ and 6a pitches. Totally and globally well equipped, except surprisingly at the exit from the overhang at the start of L3, where it's best not to fall. A very quiet and wild environment. A route that's still enjoyable, very accessible, to be enjoyed preferably on a summer's morning, so as not to get too hot.

Technical summary

Access to the place

From Vilanova de Meïa. Take the small road to the north up to the gorge. You pass the foot of the Roca dels Arcs, take a bend at the Font de la Figuera, then wind up and quickly enter the gorge. After crossing the small bridge on the east face of Roca dels Arcs, continue on for a while. The road meanders gently and just before a beautiful, large, slightly uphill right/left bend, park on the side. The start is to the right of a small potato-shaped sports area just along the road, where you can see some old, slightly rusty belay pads (placa de Syd Barret area).

Map & topo

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 10'

Climb the rocky ramp to the right of the sports area. You come to a 2nd area (Gran Slab). Continue uphill to the left, following the natural route. At the upper level, you'll find yourself at the foot of a cliff. The route starts under a tree to the left of the "Sr Tarzán" route (marked with 3 burils in a shoulder-high triangle).

Course

The route faces south-east and is 120m long in 3 pitches (45m, 40m, 35m). Difficulty 6a in L3, good equipment, 10 quickdraws required.

L1 (45m, V+)

A 1st section with 4 points and excellent rock. Follow the points slightly diagonally to the left. A small flat then the 2nd part (5 points) very vertical in delicate and tonic V+ but perfectly protected. Relay R1 is just above and very comfortable.

L2 (40m, IV)

This is simply a junction between the cliff's 2 vertical walls. 4 belay points are all you need, and you finish with a grip on a very abrasive ramp to belay R2 below the overhanging start of L3. A comfortable belay.

L3 (35m, 6a)

Come on, it's already kicking a bit more! We're soon under the overhang. There are some big holds in the hole above, but you have to go for it and the exit is quite tricky (V+). The forearms are getting a bit fuller. Above the overhang, ojo as there's no protection and a good 5 metres to the next point. And that's not the end of the story, as we have to get over a good, almost overhanging wall with small rulers and fingers that are starting to give out (6a). The end is easier up to the R3 belay, almost at the top of the cliff.

Back

The descent is via a path that leads off to the left of the last belay station, following a rope in poor condition, down the north face of the area to the road.