TOPO Climbing

Necronomicon at La Roca dels Arcs, Vilanova de Meïa, Spain

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dans le mur de la L3 (6a)

Vilanova de Meïa, first ascent. The gigantic Roca dels Arcs, with over 200m of vertical wall, imposes all its strength and seems to occupy all the space. The Necronomicon route attacks the rock on its right flank, where the wall bends to enter the défilé del Pas Nou. 140m of commitment and 2h30 of energy, an extraordinary 3rd pitch, very aerial and more than vertical, all in continuity, where the mind is put to the test... A highly recommendable route, even if the equipment could be better. You'll need to protect your progress with a few friends and ropes in the bushes, especially on the first 15 meters. A great way to start out Vilanova de Meïa!

Technical summary

Access to the place

From Vilanova de Meïa, take the narrow road heading north (Terradets, Isona). The imposing wall of the Roca dels Arcs soon comes into view. Pass the "font de la Figuera" and climb up to reach the gorge. You're now at the level of the Roca dels Arcs, facing its eastern face. There's a bridge and you can park just beyond it on the side of the road. The route is right in front of us, easily recognizable with a jar-shaped piece of rock at the bottom.

Map & topo

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 20'

Take the path down to the torrent, cross it and climb the other side. A little further on, fork right for an even smaller path that leads in 10′ to the foot of the wall. The start of the route is easy to spot, to the right of the underside of the jar, to the right of a tree, in some sort of limestone crenellation.

Course

Opened in 1981, the route faces east. 140m in 4 pitches (35m, 25m, 40m, 40m), all equipped, but it's better to have a small set of friend and lanyards in addition to a dozen quickdraws for extra protection.


L1 (35m, V+)

A tense start! Not only is the equipment inadequate (add at least 2 friends in the first 15 meters), but the rock is slippery, even porous in places. It's immediately quite vertical and well engaged. The 2nd part is easier up to belay R1. (I'm not sure... we may have done L1 of the "a donde vas Vicente". The L1 of the Necronomicon would go even further to the right, in a V shape. In any case, the R1 is common to both lanes).


L2 -(25m, V+)

Follow to the left up a small dihedral. Very good holds, but the length is exposed, with only 2 parabolts. An extra sabine can be fitted. The R2 belay is very comfortable, on a nice little flat, at the foot of the impressive vertical plate (L3).


L3 (40m, 6a)

An extraordinary pitch! A great climber with a great atmosphere and a muted brain. Exit diagonally to the right of the belay to attack the wall. The points are far apart and there's everything you need as you go along. Horizontal faults offer very good grabs. Save yourself a little because it's long and there's a slightly finer passage at 2/3. No really hard pitches, but it's continuous and committed. The end of the length is easier. 7 points + 1 friend to be placed between the last nail and R2.


L4 (40m, V)

Very little equipment: 2 or 3 parabolts, but you can go along the bushes without any problem. Exit to the right of R3 and climb up, then follow the natural route, to the left, to the summit. This is an easy length to protect, which serves to decompress both mentally and physically. Magnificent panorama of the gorge.

Back

Catch a tiny trail that heads north from here. There are no markings and you have to improvise quite a bit, going "a trancas y barrancas" to find the road back to the starting point.

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