All in all, this Serrat d'En Muntaner has plenty of resources. A West face with mainly long routes and this East face where you can combine long routes with very interesting sport routes. The location is superb, a little high up, not too crowded, well exposed and the rock is excellent. The equipment is also top-notch and you can climb in complete safety. The routes are long, very homogeneous, sustained and varied. The only slight drawback is that there aren't that many of them, even if you do take advantage of the 1st or 2nd pitches of the big routes that cross the sector. So it's an excellent option for day trips, winter mornings or summer afternoons.
départ Petit Guifré
Technical summary
Access to the place
Go to Collbato and climb through the village to join the track leading to Vinya Nova. After a few hairpin bends and before you reach the restaurant, there's a straight stretch of esplanade under the trees where you can park on the left. This is the Clot de la Monica and you're right in front of the Serrat d'En Muntaner and its huge neighbor, the Pastereta (with a big, long nose...).
Itinerary description
Hiking to the start 20'
Take the well-marked path leading up the mountain from the parking lot. After a few hundred metres, continue straight ahead on a tiny blue-marked path. It twists and turns upwards, and you soon come to the Serrat in question, with that big rock in front of it: el Frare Baix. Turn left onto one of the paths and, before you reach the wall, take the poorly-marked, broken paths that lead to the ledge and along it to the west at the foot of the routes (halfway up the wall). It's easy to see where this is.
Course Les voies
All the routes are equipped and south-east-facing, so from left to right you'll find
Petit Guifré (V+)
This is the first pitch of the long route. It starts on a beautiful slab on the left. A very good warm-up route, with finesse and placement. You can even continue it for the 2 pitches (there's another belay at 30/35m).
Cutlass (30m, 6a)
This route was originally rated V+. It has recently been lengthened with a tricky step on a small overhang (especially the exit) and is now rated 6a overall, with another tricky passage below. A 6a for continuity given the length.
Claudio King (6a+)
Here's a strong 6a+ which, given the length of the route, could be worth a 6b overall. It's a notch above the previous one. A fine, solid start and another passage in the middle where you can leave some feathers. The final overhang in the diagonal dihedral isn't so bad, but it's not cheap either. Very nice route!
Ceba traidora
Not yet tested... coming soon!
Orgull Mapuche (6b)
This is the 2nd pitch of the big route, and you can do it as a sport, because it's superb, athletic and very sustained.
Bavaresa güeca and Artengo (6c)
Very nice routes! V+/6a start and a few steps on the slight overhang with very small holds. Accessible 6c, well toned and very well equipped for launching yourself headlong!
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