Access to the place
Hiking to the start 20'
Take the well-marked path leading up the mountain from the parking lot. After a few hundred metres, continue straight ahead on a tiny blue-marked path. It twists and turns upwards, and you soon come to the Serrat in question, with that big rock in front of it: el Frare Baix. Turn left onto one of the paths and, before you reach the wall, take the poorly-marked, broken paths that lead to the ledge and along it to the west at the foot of the routes (halfway up the wall). It's easy to see where this is.
Course Les voies
All the routes are equipped and south-east-facing, so from left to right you'll find
Petit Guifré (V+)
This is the first pitch of the long route. It starts on a beautiful slab on the left. A very good warm-up route, with finesse and placement. You can even continue it for the 2 pitches (there's another belay at 30/35m).
Cutlass (30m, 6a)
This route was originally rated V+. It has recently been lengthened with a tricky step on a small overhang (especially the exit) and is now rated 6a overall, with another tricky passage below. A 6a for continuity given the length.
Claudio King (6a+)
Here's a strong 6a+ which, given the length of the route, could be worth a 6b overall. It's a notch above the previous one. A fine, solid start and another passage in the middle where you can leave some feathers. The final overhang in the diagonal dihedral isn't so bad, but it's not cheap either. Very nice route!
Not yet tested... coming soon!
Orgull Mapuche (6b)
This is the 2nd pitch of the big route, and you can do it as a sport, because it's superb, athletic and very sustained.
Bavaresa güeca and Artengo (6c)
Very nice routes! V+/6a start and a few steps on the slight overhang with very small holds. Accessible 6c, well toned and very well equipped for launching yourself headlong!