Divorci imminent a la Serrat d’En Muntaner, Montserrat, Spain

Climbing

Publié le 28 May 2012 |

Back to the east face of Serrat d'En Muntaner, decidedly resourceful. After the rather straight Orgull Mapuche, this is the 2nd major route of interest in the sector. The route is quite original and the main interest lies in the 2 central pitches. The L1 (expo start!) and the L4 (broken terrain at the end...) are just enough to cover the whole route and can be avoided if necessary. After changing belays on the ledge, the 2nd pitch starts with a few delicate 6b steps followed by a not-so-hard but highly original, almost horizontal traverse. We then cross Orgull Mapuche and a few sporty routes. The 3rd pitch is easier; some topos say it has a 6a pitch, but the whole thing is more V+. It's well equipped and very pleasant, with a few imbalances to manage and some good holds. To descend, you can use the last belay of the Orgull Mapuche (45m) and you'll find yourself on the ledge with, if you want to continue, some very interesting sporting routes in the 6.

Technical summary

Access to the place

Go to Collbato and climb through the village to join the track leading to Vinya Nova. After a few hairpin bends and before you reach the restaurant, there's a straight stretch of esplanade under the trees where you can park on the left. This is the Clot de la Monica and you're right in front of the Serrat d'En Muntaner and its huge neighbor, the Pastereta (with a big, elongated nose...).

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 20'

Take the well-marked path leading up the mountain from the parking lot. After a few hundred metres, continue straight ahead on a tiny path with blue markings. It twists and turns upwards, and you soon come to the Serrat in question, with this large rock in front of it: el frare baix. Turn left onto one of the paths leading to the foot of the frare. You then pass under the Orgull Mapuche trailhead. Continue west towards the base of the Frare. Just before it, you'll see a line of nails (Petit Nil). Climb back along the rcoher and through the roots to reach the start of the route. The first nail is 5 or 6 m above a ledge and to the left of a shrub.

Course

The route, facing south-east, is 100m long in 4 pitches (25m, 20m, 20m, 35m). The equipment is good except for the L1 expo start. Allow for 7 quickdraws.

L1 (25m, V+)

An easy but unprotected recovery (unless you equip a dead shrub on the left). Then climb to the foot of the plate to find the 1st nail. The V+ step is to the right of the plate, then straight on to the ledge above. The R1 belay is done there, as best you can, on a slightly wobbly shrub...

L2 (20m, 6b)

Walk along the right-hand ledge for a few metres to reach the start of the 2nd pitch, after a large rock on the ground. Climb 3 vertical nails to an almost horizontal crack. It's fine and there's a good 6b pitch in the middle. Then climb diagonally up the crack to the right, cross the start of the vertical dihedral (Orgull Mapuche) and reach the belay even further to the right.

L3 (20m, V+)

Exit diagonally to the right (leave the lines that climb straight up - 6c sport climbers). There's a slight bend at the level of a shrub, then the route climbs the dihedral vertically this time. A very pleasant and original length.

L4 (35m, IV+)

2 nails to climb the plate before turning left and aiming for the summit on a broken path. The R4 belay is from a shrub. Length of no particular interest other than to finish.

Back

From the summit, descend a little to find the last belay of the Orgull Mapuche and abseil about 45m to the intermediate ledge. From here, turn right (looking at the wall) to find a path that's in rather poor condition and descends as best you can, eventually joining the main approach path.