Cleavage, Ras Al Khaimah, Emirates

Topo published on |


départ Hanging very tough !

Small trad and sport climbing sector in a mini canyon on the left as you climb up Wadi Shah, a little before the bends and the Transition sector. The routes are in the shade. Short at the entrance, longer and more interesting a little further along the left-hand walls. A good way to end the day or to complement other sectors in the area.

Technical summary

Access to the place

From RAK, join the road leading to the entrance of Wadi Bih (see map in the UAE topo guide). At the yellow house, at the small traffic circle, turn left into Wadi Shah. Once well into the wadi, in a long, more or less straight stretch, look for the gorget on the left. Park by the roadside.

Map & topo

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 5'

Follow the path straight down into the gorge, crossing the torrent bed to access the starting paths, then moving on to the deeper ones.

Course Les voies

They are equipped, sometimes with distance between nails. Trad is also available, but not tested. The area is described in the UAE Topo Guide, page 57.


Hanging Haemorrhoid (12m, 6b)

Super hot. short route, but I found it very hard, with loose holds and overhangs. could be worth a 6b+.

Lidocaine (12m, 6b+)

Untraced on the topo, 2m to the left of the previous one. Short but thinner than its neighbor. Easier start but very fine reta and next step. Invigorating exit.


Wrong Turn at maqta Bridge (18m, 6b)

Very fine, continuous route. Classic" equipment, nails a bit far from the start, a shame.

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