TOPO Climbing | CLIMBING7.COM

Crumbs from the cake, Jebel Assaït, Ibri, Oman

Publié le 11 January 2014 | Oman Eng

Oman, on the western slopes of Jebel Kawar, opposite the terrible and imposing Jebel Misht. Discover an extraordinary corner with enormous potential. The Jebel Assaït looks like a huge rocky blade planted there, dominated by the Jebel Assala and at the foot of the incredible 1000m walls of the Jebel Kawar, in the background. The route, entirely in adventure terrain, climbs up the north face of the rock to reach the 2nd tower, 270m higher. 6 interesting pitches, in the V/V+ range and one 6a pitch, protected by 2 bolts on the 2 most exposed passages. Good rock even if some boulders are wobbly, a varied climb, dihedral, slab, accessible, overlooking the Ibchy oasis, base camp for the weekend. The exit is on the east face with a 50m abseil above the small village.

Technical summary

Access to the place

From the road from Abri to Nizwa, branch off into the Misht valley at Kuburah, passing through Amlah, Al Ain, Barut and continuing towards Ghul. A track towards Hail Habesh leads to the village. Continue on the track around Jebel Assaït to reach the Ibchy oasis, with terraces for camping (see access map from Rémy Thivel's website below).

Map & topo

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 30'

Can be done on sight, as the route is visible from the Ibchy oasis on the north face, on the Misht side. Climb up the stony slope to find a small access gully at the base of the wall. There's an area of white slope, and the start is below, a little to the right, in a characteristic dihedral (cairn at the start).

Course

The route is north-facing and gets the sun on the last pitches at the end of the day. 235m in 6 pitches (40m, 50m, 40m, 40m, 25m, 40m). The existing equipment consists of just 2 bolts (L2 and L5), so plan on a full set of friends, possibly doubled from 0.75 to 3, a few stoppers and slings and at least one 2x50m. The maximum level is 6a (starting dihedral ? and L5), with no major difficulties other than a fairly exposed climb in places.

L1 (40m, V+/6a)
The dihedral with one or 2 more delicate steps to exit in the most vertical part. Then put the R1 belay on the left below the next dihedral.

L2 (50m, V+)
The crack to be climbed is a bit wobbly, ojo! Higher up, take a step to the left to climb the slab and make an arc around the protection bolt. It's fine, but not too difficult (expo!). Climb the R2 belay under the small roof in the white zone (1 piton) or a little higher to the right in a nook, under the L3.

L3 (40m, IV+)
Climb up the other side. Fairly vertical start but big holds, easier finish to a very comfortable belay at the foot of a long sloping dihedral.

L4 (40m, V)
Follow the crack in the dihedral, then above it a small, more vertical wall with good picks for passing. The R4 belay is at the level of a lunula, under the bolt of the 6a at about 5m.

L5 (25m, 6a)
Go right into a vertical crack that leads to the only bolt, then continue straight on before veering slightly left to join a passage between 2 overhangs. It's thinner but the rock is very good. Difficult to protect after the bolt.

L6 (40m, IV+)
Cross to the white part below the overhang and then climb vertically. Very abrasive rock, and an aerial finish over large boulders to reach the exit ledge.

Back

Walk along the left-hand ledge to the corner, then unclimb (expo!!) a few metres to the east face. Keep descending diagonally inwards to quickly find the belay (1 bolt + one lunula connected). 50m of abseiling to land on the lower flank. On the way back, we descent several small gullies with little difficulty, before skirting the base of Assaït and returning to the camp. We pass well above the village below.