At the end of the road after the last village of Corça, the Pertusa rock and its hermit, dominating the pantà de Canelles and offering an exceptional view of the Mont-rebeï congost. While the rock is the site of several via ferrata, there are also some great routes to discover and a sport climbing area on the southern flank of the piton. South-facing, we were able to explore a central sector, located above a school sector a little lower down. Only a few routes, but on very nice rock, equipped over some twenty meters, at an accessible level. This option makes for a perfect end to a day out in the area, before heading down to the water's edge on the way back to Corça for a refreshing swim.
Face sud de la Pertusa
Technical summary
Access to the place
40 kms before Leida (coming from Barcelona on the A2), turn north to Balaguer and then Ager on the edge of Catalonia. Go as far as the village of Corça, 7 kms from Ager. As you enter Corça, turn right onto the semi-bitumen track towards La Pertusa and its hermitage. After a few hairpin bends and a few minutes, you come to a cul de sac, at the top of the Pertusa rock, at the foot of the pantano de Canelles. Park in the small parking lot provided.
Itinerary description
Hiking to the start 10'
Take the path down the left side of the Pertusa, leading to the vias ferrata. There's a 1st large grey slab on the right with a single equipped route, but it's all smooth (we'll see later ;D). Descend further along the wall to find a second sector with 5 routes, the first 2 having only one bolt (in the IV/V?). We climbed the next 3, which were better equipped. Continuing down, there's a school sector with 3 small, well-equipped routes (IV?). Further down is the start of the Olmo-Soler ferrata.
Course
The routes are south-facing with a start under small trees. Beautiful gray limestone with good grip and good holds. The equipment is good but not excessive, you have to climb between the nails, the belays are chained. A 40m rope and 6 quickdraws will suffice. As I haven't found the topo for these routes, they are described from left to right.
Leftmost route 1 (20m, V+, 5 quickdraws). A good step at the start, impressive but easy to bolt the 1st quickdraw. Then 2 small walls to climb, but there's everything you need. Sustained in the level.
Route 2 just before (20m, 6a, 5 quickdraws). Easier start, then the level rises to V, V+ and a 6a pitch to exit on the final flat.
Route 3 just before (15m, V+, 4 quickdraws). Quite a fine start and a bit exposed, then a nice climb to reach the 2d, much higher up (exposed!) and a fine finish too. Nice length.
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