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Terra de Dinosaures a la Paret Bucòlica, Oliana

Publié le 7 August 2014 | Catalunya Eng, Spain

A bucolic atmosphere, to say the least, to discover the beautiful wall that borders the Segre at the end of Oliana's pants. The rock is excellent (except at the end of L5), the setting peaceful despite the stretch of road running along at our feet, and the route quite accessible, with 3 small 6a passages but otherwise in the V/V+ range to enjoy. The equipment is good but airy (except to protect the 6a) and a few not-too-large belayers will be welcome to complete the picture, if need be. Next door, Basalm del Tigre is also a classic, and further left, at the cirque on the way back, Pas d'Estrès is more difficult (6b+) but apparently very well equipped, making you want to return.

Technical summary

Access to the place

From Oliana up towards Coll de Nargo on the C14, go through the 3rd tunnel and take the service road on the right. Drive about 300m and park in a small space on the right. You're now under the Paret Bucòlica, at about track level.

Map & topo

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 30'

Go back 100m or so to climb 10′ up a path in a gorge (cairns and red markings). Cut right onto an ill-defined path that leads within sight of the foot of the track. Start just to the right of Basalm del Tigre, next to a characteristic pine tree ("TD" engraved on the rock).

Course

The route has a south-east exposure and is 160m long in 5 pitches (30m, 30m, 35m, 25m, 40m). Compulsory level is 6a. The route is well equipped on the most difficult pitches, with nails further away on the rest. Bring 12 quickdraws and a set of friends to complete the route.

L1 (30m, V/V+)

Start on an easy ramp on a slight right diagonal, then link 2 vertical slabs with fine movements.

L2 (30m, 6a)

Exit to the left to a small overhang. Pass to the right, using the crack, then back along the axis (6a). Continue on the slab with a series of fine movements to belay R2, very comfortable on a small ledge.

L3 (35m, V+)

Climb to the right on an easy column, then continue on a slab with the help of a crack (V+). Finish on a flat area for R3.

L4 (25m, 6a)

Athletic start to the right, then climb diagonally to the left following the nails. Then turn right on a thin slab and finish on a strangely shaped slab to reach a very good exit hold (clean scale). Relay on a small flat area.

L5 (40m, 6a)

A fine start on mini holds to pass a last small wall. Above, it's much easier (III) to finish on broken ground, in the middle of bushes (beware of rolling pieeres). Relay R5 on a big tree.

Back

Climb the ridge and follow the path to the right. The path passes behind the ridge and then a pass to pour over to the other side. Follow the edge of the cliff through a sort of cirque and then descend steeply to the road (scree and tricky descent).