The via CADE is an exceptional route on one of the region's major rock faces, in a fabulous setting, accompanied at all times by splendid, immense vultures, silent guardians of the rock. 600m of rock face, a logical route in the classic spirit of climbing, seeking out cracks, dihedrals and ledges to reach the top of a cliff which, from below, seems quite impassable. All of this without exceeding V+/6a in free climbing, with a few short artificial passages and incredible rock throughout. The ratings given in the CADE are a little underestimated in places, reading V for IV, V+ for V, and even 6a for V+. It took us almost 10 hours to climb the route, and although it faces south, we were lucky enough to have slightly overcast weather and a light breeze to avoid drying out along the way. The route is fully equipped, opened in 1963, with quite a lot of equipment dating from different eras, from piton to bolt to rusty old spit and second-hand lunula. You'll still need a full set of friends and a few stoppers to protect easy pitches with little equipment. There are also a number of patinated sections, due to over 50 years of use - the price of success. A great route, demanding but unforgettable.
Technical summary
Type ✦ Large equipped track
Location ✦ Camarasa, Terradets
Region ✦ Catalunya
Country ✦ Spain
Lengths ✦ 20
Vertical rise ✦ 600m
Difficulty max ✦ V+/Ae
Interest ✦ ★★★
Access to the place
Take the A2 to Balaguer, north-west of Barcelona, branching off at Tarrega, just before Leida. Take the C13 up towards Tremp, passing Camarasa to reach the Terradets pass, just before the pantano of the same name. The paret de les Bagasses is easily recognizable, on the left in the gorge, a huge cliff, elongated and sculpted at the top. Park at the Font de Bagasses parking lot or a little further on, at the level of an old Roman bridge, where the approach path to CADE starts.
Map & topo
Itinerary description
Hiking to the start 20'
Cross the small stone bridge and climb back up to reach the railroad. Walk along the tracks and through the tunnel on the right, then turn around and go back up over it. You'll then see the characteristic geometric rock slab just above this tunnel, which marks the start of the track, at the foot of a huge sloping slab.
Course
The CADE is south-facing, but the 1st part is in the shade until 9am and the shade returns at the end of the day on the top of the wall (as we spend the day there). 590 to 600m announced, not in a straight line, with zigzags and a few large horizontal ledges for 20 pitches, some of which can be linked without too much pulling (40m, 30m, 15m, 35m, 40m, 40m, 15m, 20m, 35m, 40m, 60m of ledge, 35m, 30m, 20m, 20m, 15m, 30m, 15m, 30m, 35m). Compulsory level is V/A0, but climbs are to be taken half a notch higher. In addition to a dozen quickdraws, you'll need lanyards for the bushes and a few medium-sized jammers/friends.
Length 1 (40m, IV)
Easy ascent to the left of the stuck rock to find the R1 above.
Length 2 (30m, V)
It climbs straight up to finish obliquely to the right. A little notch above.
Lengths 3 and 4 (15m + 35m, III and IV+)
Continue diagonally, pass the belay at 15m and follow to the right (not in a line that runs vertically...). At the end and top of the open dihedral, continue on the slab and find the R4 belay on the right on a flat area.
Length 5 (40m, V+)
Continue in the open dihedral, which diagonally to the left, then under a small wall, cross to the left to pass a slightly polished, fine V+ pitch. Continue on an easier route to the R5.
Length 6 (40m, V)
Fantastic aerial dihedral with gas underfoot. End of pitch on a small ledge, relay R6 to the right.
Lengths 7 and 8 (15m + 20m, IV+ and V)
Zigzag ascent with no major difficulties, despite a slightly slippery passage that's not so obvious.
Length 9 (35m, Ae/IV+)
The artif' is done in A0 without too much difficulty, although quite physical. The exit is easier, with a free finish to R9 at the start of a ledge (or walk up R9 to the foot of the wall).
Length 10 (40m, V+)
The final pitch of part 1. Expo start and a step that could be worth a 6a, especially as it's skated. The pitch changes to A0 and the rest of the route is fairly steady, with protection on the way as there are few points, then easier at the end to reach the mid-wall ledge.
Length 11 (100m, I)
Walk north on the wall, 60m announced, more it seems. We pass a 1st belay then further on, after a large hanging tree, we find R11, the only place where we can restart in III.
Length 12 (30m, IV)
Climb diagonally to reach a grassy flat. Follow diagonally left to climb R12 over a tree.
Length 13 (20m, IV)
This time, climb diagonally to the right, aiming for the orange underside of the large roof.
Lengths 14, 15 and 16 (20m + 20m + 15m, IV+/V)
We've tried all 3, but it's a bit short. Cross diagonally to the left. The points are very far apart, but you can protect yourself without difficulty. You'll pass over a large overhang, so you'll have to climb upwards. Continue to the left and eventually reach a fairly comfortable ledge and a large tree for the R16. You'll find yourself at the foot of a wall a little higher up.
Pitches 17 and 18 (30m + 15m, V+/6a then III)
Impressive and very aerial length. Climb the small patinated dihedral (V) above the tree and climb to the left to find the wall's 1st nail. Continue by traversing generally to the left before climbing straight up (V+/6a passage). You end up in a sort of dihedral and can continue on to L18, this time obliquely to the right to find a new tree for the R18. Well-equipped length.
Length 19 (30m, V+)
Advertised as IV+... there's a V+ pitch and overall an athletic, aerial pitch. Diagonal exit from R18 with 1 piton and 1 bolt, then a more vertical dihedral and 2 not-so-obvious passages.
Length 20 (35m, V)
Exit to the right, again diagonally, then climb straight up the ridge and finish in a small dihedral that's a bit awkward to climb. Exit to the ridge at last!
Back
Descend due east along the small, more or less marked path that follows the ridge, then descend several flights of steps with a few descents (III), some equipped with chains. Continue eastwards, descending overall. At the end, when you can't go any further or any lower, you'll find a slightly hidden belay on a large tree for a 45-metre abseil and a second 25-metre abseil (tree) right next to it. We join a more marked path which continues eastwards and finally joins the road a little above our starting parking lot.
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