TOPO Climbing | CLIMBING7.COM
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Stardust is a sport climbing area north of Ras Al Khaimah, just before Wadi Ghalilah. Recently equipped, it is still in the process of being equipped, with many new routes opening up from week to week. Access is quick, at the start of a fairly short wadi, and consequently the spot is well frequented. There are currently around 15 routes, from V to 7a+, on several north-facing walls that follow one another. The rock is of fairly good quality in places, but not everywhere, and is generally dusty.
Type ✦ Rind climbing
Location ✦ Wadi Galilah
Region ✦ Ras Al Khaimah
Country ✦ United Arab Emirates
Difficulty ✦ 5 to 7a+
Max route ✦ 30m (?)
Orientation ✦ North
Rock ✦ Limestone
Interest ✦ ★
Pass RAK and get back on the E18, which heads north towards the border with Musandam (Oman). Pass Rams then, just before reaching the large cement works and the fork in the wadi Ghalilah, turn right after Rahbah towards a small village to pick up a stony track that plunges into the wadi. After 10′ max, we pass a sheepfold with many goats. Stardust and the first tracks are on the right.
Click on the Stardust topo image to view. Precise GPS directions to the site are given.
Immediate, since cars can be parked at the foot of the tracks.
North-facing overall, they are all equipped with sports equipment and can be rappelled. Quality equipment. The routes below, tested during our visits, are described in the direction of arrival in the wadi, as in the topo, published by Loudmil (this may not be the latest version).
1st section in the V to access the final wall of mini holds to negotiate.
Start with a jump to suspend yourself and exit on 1 physical step. The rest of the route is very fine and slightly overhanging. A 1st hole then a very fine passage to reach another pretty hole. The finish is beautiful, invigorating and quite exhausting.
Introductory or warm-up route of no great difficulty.
Nice length, with an interesting traverse above the hole.
Not homogeneous, the most difficult pitch at the top before the belay.
Very dusty. Less interesting than Dancing Dust.
The rock is still a bit rotten, it sounds hollow... Nice slab otherwise, worth more V+.
Nice pitch, advertised as 6c but this must be a mistake. Vertical start and small roof at the top, easy enough to negotiate in the end.
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