TOPO Climbing | CLIMBING7.COM

Nosy Hara, Antsiranana, Madagascar

Publié le 27 April 2018 | Madagascar Eng

In the north of Madagascar, south-west of Cap d'Ambre, the Tsingy cliffs of the tiny island of Andantsara and its neighbor, the island of Anjombalova in the Nosy Hara archipelago, have been equipped to offer magnificent climbing routes to those who, after a 2-hour 4×4 journey and a 2-hour boat trip, were able to get there. A Robinson Crusoe atmosphere guaranteed, wild and totally unspoilt landscapes, limpid and colorful underwater depths are all part of an extraordinary setting. The routes are generally well equipped, and most are in the 6+ range. A short boat ride takes you to Nosy Anjombalova, another little paradise, and to the cliffs overlooking the lagoon for some unforgettable climbing. The rest is simply magical, alone in the middle of the water under an immense sky of tropical colors.

Technical summary

Type ✦ Rind climbing

Location ✦ Nosy Andantsara & Nosy Anjombalova

Region ✦ Nosy Hara archipelago, Diana

Country ✦ Madagascar

Difficulty ✦ 4 to 7

Max route ✦ 30m (?)

Rock ✦ Limestone (Tsingy)

Interest ✦ ★★★

Access to the place

The only way to get to the cape is via New Sea Roc and its owner, Matthieu, from Diego-Suarez. 1h30 to 2h by 4×4 to reach the bay of Courrier to the west, where the pier is located.

Map & topo

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 1h30 à 2h

It takes a 2-hour dhow to cross the bay due west towards the archipelago and dock on the beach at Camp Corail on the small island of Andanstara.

Course Secteurs

Sectors

Several sectors on Andantsara, including NSR, just behind the camp, the Grotte in the heart of the Tsingy massif, Oiseaux du Paradis and Grand Large on the opposite side to the camp (Grand Large accessible only at low tide).

The topo is available on site. The equipment is made of sealed pins and the belays are mostly connected. The spacing between the points sometimes seemed a bit wide, with some unnecessary risks of ground or rock return on the few routes we did. The climbing was very vertical or overhanging, but there were some nice holds (holes, cracks, rulers, etc.). The rock is very aggressive in places (pimples, sharp edges) and elsewhere, on the orange or black sections, softer and smoother.

Here's some information on the routes we've climbed:

Andantsara Island - NSR sector

Alefa (3c)

The easiest route in the area, but worth an IV. Big holes and big tubs to climb the Tsingy almost to the top.

Double Lame (4a)

Just to the right of the previous one, thinner in 2 or 3 places. More like a 5a.

Papango (5c)

Nice length on the ridge, with no difficulty apart from the verticality. Lots of good holds!

Tinah Dalle (6a+)

A slab with drops, rulers and a hole to negotiate before finishing on an easier wall.

Ginette s'en ressort (6a)

A slightly overhanging start, but not too hard, and we pass over a Tsingy pillar all the way to the top. Nice pitch.

Nosy Paradis (6b)

The first 3 points are quite overhanging, followed by a fairly fine vertical passage and a less difficult finish.

Pilier Zanaboty (6a+)

Continuity without big steps, keep it in your arm for the end!

Fakir (6b)

First 4 taut, overhanging points with hidden holds. Delicate and committed exit to finish easier on Tsingy gutters. Distant points!

Androgon Kely (5b)

Start at water level to the right of the camp. Line left of wide vertical crack. Not so obvious, nice holds but very vertical for the level.

Le Gecko Alcolo (5a)

Same start as the previous route, but with a change of wall to finish on the right in the crack. Original and atmospheric, with the sea underfoot.

Andantsara Island - Oiseaux du Paradis sector

Arabesque (6b+)

Magnificent, very homogeneous pitch on a sculpted, overhanging face. A costly finale, where you have to grasp finer holds with tense arms.

Anjombalova Island - Mozambique sector

Pachypodium (5c)

Extraordinary route! We climb up the base of a large tsingy, passing through a small garden of Pachypodium before attacking the high, vertical part and finishing on the top of the rock, above the translucent emerald waters of Nosy Hara. Great climbing, great atmosphere, postcard panorama...

Le guêpier (6a+)

A very vertical and athletic line, always with an incredible atmosphere above the islands of Nosy Hara.