Having set out to climb the south ridge of Torre Piccola, via Comici, we turned back to Torre Grande, just behind, in search of some peace and quiet. Via Lussato is very accessible, fairly short, with a fine 2nd pitch. A B solution to keep you busy for half a day in the area, while you wait for something better. All that remains is the splendid Dolomite scenery and a panoramic view of the area around the summit.
Technical summary
Type ✦ Big route in adventure terrain
Location ✦ Cortina d'Ampezzo
Region ✦ Dolomites
Country ✦ Italy
Lengths ✦ 4
Vertical rise ✦ 175m
Difficulty max ✦ V
Interest ✦ ★
Access to the place
Below Passo Falzarego, on the Cortina d'Ampezzo side, park at the Da Strobel grill restaurant. The Falzarego towers are just above.
Itinerary description
Hiking to the start 30'
Climb towards the towers on the forest path, then below the Torre Piccola, follow the left-hand side of the path to reach the west face of the Torre Grande. Start between 2 boulders, just left of the corridor between the 2 towers.
Course
The route is 175m long in 4 pitches (40m, 45m, 40m, 50m) and faces southwest. Belays 1 and 2 are equipped with a ring, and there are a few pitons along the way. The entire route and descent are marked with a slightly faded red line. Bring a full set of friends. Only one pitch in L2 in V, the rest in IV or less.
L1 (40m, IV+)
Exit between the 2 boulders, then climb the mini-dihedral. The rest is very easy (III) before a small wall that leads to the belay in a niche. 1 sealed ring.
L2 (45m, V-)
Exit by climbing diagonally to the right to pass the ridge and then climb straight up a pretty dihedral. The finer pitch can be bypassed to the right with some nice holds. Exit above to set up the belay on a small platform under a small wall. 1 ring sealed to the belay.
L3 (40m, IV)
Pass the small wall (IV) and the rest of East II on rock between boulders. Continue until you reach the final wall of very uneven rock.
L4 (50m, III)
Go straight up the sloping wall. Climb the steps to the summit of Torre Grande. Panoramic view!
Back
Walk north along the summit ridge (mountain side) to de-escalate to III and access the 30m abseil (1 ring). Then climb up a little to pass the small col before tipping westwards to descend steeply into the gully and rejoin the approach path.
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