TOPO Via ferrata
A great experience, but only for the adventurous!
■ Type of route: via ferrata, partially unequipped
■ Direction: west
■ Equipped length: 600 m
■ Vertical rise: +420 m
■ Estimated total time: 4h to 6h
■ Min and max altitude: 670 m / 1210 m
■ Equipment in place: small metal handles mainly
■ Equipment required: classic ferrata gear + climbing rope and belayers to pass unequipped sections, possibly bypassing them.
Difficulty: Difficult or K4, adventure climbing pitches (V).
Access to the place
Map & topo
Hiking to the start 30'
Take the G-200 towards Mogàn and after 50m, the path is signposted on the left. Climb up and follow it northwards, crossing under the walls. After 15-20′, there's a large pine tree on the path, and a little further on, take a tiny path that climbs straight up the walls. The start is not visible from the main path. You have to get closer to see the installations. A landmark: the finger-shaped rock at the top of the walls.
Course 3h à 4h
The via ferrata, which was built in 2013, was recently closed due to non-compliance with current standards (?). The starts of the 1st and 3rd pitches (there are 9 in all) have been cut: iron pedals sliced through, life cable severed. The rest is as it was, i.e. in good condition, with a few pedals that move, but not dangerously. The cable shows no signs of rust, nor do the safety pads. In short, it's hard to understand this closure for such a recent installation, except to think that the local authorities no longer want to take care of it, unless there's a problem with the manufacturers...
A climbing start, since the pedals have been sawed off. It's not very hard, you just have to commit yourself. The cable is reached 7 or 8m from the ground and the iron pedals are used again for climbing. The rest of the route is fairly vertical, with an aerial traverse before emerging onto a sheltered ledge under a rocky roof. Here, the via sign and a possible escape route are indicated on the right. Walk to the left to reach the start of the L2.
This length is completely untouched. Shorter, with an easy start, 1 step to cross a small ridge and the aerial continuation but with lots of pedaling. The end is easier and you come out again on a wide ledge. We walk a little along the cable to reach L3, at the closed start...
At this point, the 12m from the start are totally unequipped and unclimbable, unless you're climbing solo in the 7. So we looked for access to the upper ledge from the left. We soon find a ramp that's easy to climb, and above it a small 10m chimney that can be climbed (V/V+) with a bit of equipment. You can then return to the ferrata and easily find the L3 exit above. It's a pity, because this pitch looked superb!
A short pitch, with an exit step, then walk right to the start of L5.
A kind of bulge to negotiate, not too difficult, with only 1 or 2 more vertical steps. Walk up slightly to the left to reach the start of L6.
Excellent! A small, smooth, vertical wall leads to a cave, which you cross to exit at the northern corner. At this point, there's a passage where you have to step into the void to pass a few very aerial and vertical metres. Once out of the cave, walk back towards the start of the L7.
Once again, an original feature: an almost closed chimney to climb without difficulty, and an exit through a hole above the void. The rest is easier, then you walk up to reach L8, the dihedral.
Difficult length, especially as fatigue has accumulated. 20m in a very, very vertical dihedral where you have to save yourself and use the 2 walls to climb. Once out, we walk a little higher for L9, the last pitch.
Shorter, easier, a well-equipped slab to negotiate with plenty of pedals. At the top, walk up the last rocky steps and you come out almost below the summit of the ridges.
Climb up and take the well-marked path heading due west. You stay on the ridge in the pine forest, and at the fork in the road keep to the left until you drop down a little. You come to a crossroads with a signpost indicating La Adea at 5.5 kms. From here, head in the opposite direction and descend the slab, following the cairns. Below you'll find a wide return path that leads back under the walls to the approach path.