Location ✦ Bedeilhac
Region ✦ Ariège
Country ✦ France
Lengths ✦ 5
Dénivelé ✦ 180m
Difficulty max ✦ V
Duration ✦ 2h to 3h
Interest ✦ ★
Access to the place
Hiking to the start 20'
From the parking lot, take the alleyway through the village and follow the red and yellow markings. Descend a little, then turn right onto a well-marked forest path. Climb up to exit at the base of the walls. Pass in front of the first climbing areas, then quickly branch off to climb steeply to the upper walls. Higher up, branch off a second time to reach the base of the Pilier des Cathares, which is clearly recognizable. Route names are inscribed on the rock. Climb a little to the right to find the start of Pour Lubelline.
Course 2h30 à 3h
Large, well-equipped route, with equipped and chained belays. The route faces due south. The route is fairly straightforward except for L1, where the 6a pitch is very close on the right. You can expect 1 or 2 average friends for a few spaced equipped passages.
L1 (30m, V)
A fairly homogeneous pitch with a few finer pitches. It climbs on a slight diagonal. Relay R1 is fairly narrow.
L2 (25m, V)
This pitch includes a harder slab above the start, which could be worth V+. The rest is easier up to R2, which is also not very comfortable.
L3 (30m, V)
Here too, there are 1 more vertical passages to negotiate, with few clear holds. Relay R3 not very comfortable.
L4 (30m, V)
Easier length with nice mid-length tubs to get over a small bulge.
L5 (45m, V)
Long finish with 1 or 2 finer passages. Final R5 relay at ridge level.
Continue up the easy ridge to the ruins of Château de Calamès. The return path runs behind and steeply downhill until it crosses the Col de Dijou. From here, turn left on the red and yellow signposted path and return to the starting parking lot.