TOPO Via ferrata | CLIMBING7.COM

Sentiero Benini, Dolomites

Publié le 6 August 2018 | Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy

1st ferrata in the Dolomites! The Sentiero Benini is the northern section of the via delle Bocchette, which crosses the entire Brenta massif in the Italian Dolomites. The essence and origin of via ferrata, the route follows an unstoppable logic of natural progression, threading its way along the walls via a system of aerial ledges to bypass peaks at almost 3000m. The scenery is simply sumptuous, with, weather permitting, splendid views over the green valleys and sculpted, ashen facades of the surrounding massifs. There's no difficulty on this first outing, apart from the altitude and the numerous aerial passages, not to mention the weather conditions which can complicate matters at any time. An excellent introduction to the Dolomites. The topo described here offers the complete loop from Madonna di Campiglio and back via Vasinella. So there's quite a lot of trekking involved.

Technical summary

Type ✦ Via Ferrata
Location ✦ Madonna di Campiglio
Region ✦ Trentino-Alto Adige, Dolomites
Country ✦ Italy
Vertical rise ✦ 530m
Negative altitude difference ✦ 1430m
Difficulty ✦ K2
Duration ✦ 4h to 5h
Interest ✦ ★★

Access to the place

Getting to Madonna di Campiglio from Brescia or Trento. Take the tunnel up to the northern part of the town and park near the start of the Grosté cable car.

Map & topo

Voir en plein écran

Itinerary description

Hiking to the start 15'

Take the gondola up to the passo del Grosté at 2446m (currently 12.50 euros one way).

Course 3h

The ferrata consists mainly of a series of natural or carved (?) aerial ledges with no difficulties other than the emptiness. Only the final section, to reach the Bocca di Tuckett, resembles a more classic ferrata with rungs and ladders on a vertical wall. The equipment in place is excellent, placed only on exposed passages or those requiring assistance to climb or unclimb. The few passages over névé are easy and do not require crampons, unless conditions are exceptional. The route is very well marked and obviously very busy, but that's not a problem: you can easily pass or overtake other roped parties.

Part 1: join the ledges to the equipped trailhead (45')

We immediately find the trail and the signs indicating the ferrata. It climbs on a false flat of white rock towards the 1st massif to the

Part 2: the switchbacks to the flat where the path leads directly to the refuge (1h15')

The passage is narrow, sometimes less than 1m, and really on the edge of the void. We walk holding the lifeline without difficulty. The route is on the west side, and views over the valley depend on the presence of mist, which tends to lick the walls from late morning onwards. We pass beneath the summits of cima Grosté (2898m), cima Falkner (2988m) and cima Sella (2919m).

Part 3: descent to Col de Tuckett (20')

This is the steepest part. Nice ladders, some de-escalation this time with a few rungs and the help of the lifeline. You can now see the small Bocca di Tuckett pass (2640m) and the central massif of the via delle Bocchette Alte opposite.

Section 4: from the Bocca to the Tuckett hut (45')

Descending into the valley on a delicate, slippery path or in the scree. The descent could be more complicated if it rains or if there is snow. The 2nd part is less steep, and a pretty flanking path weaves its way under the orange and black bars to reach the Tuckett refuge...crowded!

Back

Follow the path down to the Vasinella parking lot. Well signposted, after about 40' you reach the Casinei hut at 1850m. Then another 30' through the forest to the parking lot. There are shuttle buses at 2 euros every 20′ back to Madonna di Campiglio...